Valentine’s Heart Sweater for Barbie

I’ve got one more Barbie sweater coming at you for Valentines Day!  This one is a short sleeve style with white trim, a tie closure in the back, and a big white heart on the front.

Again, this pattern assumes that you have knowledge of how to change colors and carry yarn.

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog)
Double Crochet (dc)

Supplies
#1/Fingering weight yarn in white and red
0/3.25 steel hook

Ch 33, join with sl st to beginning ch. Ch 2.
R1) Dc in each ch around, join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R2) Ch 1, sc in first 16 stitches, join white and sc 1, pick up red and sc in last 16 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1, turn.
R3) Skip joining stitch, sc in next 15 stitches, pick up white and sc 3 stitches, pick up red and sc in last 15 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1, turn.
R4) Skip joining stitch, sc in next 14 stitches, pick up white and sc 5 stitches, pick up red and sc in last 14 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1, turn.
R5) Skip joining stitch, sc in next 13 stitches, pick up white and sc 7 stitches, pick up red and sc in last 13 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1, turn.
R6) Skip joining stitch, sc in next 12 stitches, pick up white and sc 9 stitches, pick up red and sc in last 12 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1, turn.
R7) Repeat row 6.
R8) Repeat row 6.
R9) Skip joining stitch, sc in next 13 stitches, pick up white and sc 3 stitches, pick up red and sc 1 stitch, pick up white and sc 3 stitches, pick up red and sc in last 13 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st. Do not turn.
R10) Ch 2, dc in each stitch around, working 1 extra stitch at back opening of sweater for a total of 34 stitches. Do not turn.
R11) Ch 1, sc in first 6 stitches, ch 8, skip 4 stitches, sc in next 14 stitches, ch 8, skip 4 stitches, sc in last 6 stitches. Ch 1, turn.
R12) Work 1 sc and 1 dc in first stitch, skip next stitch. Continue around, ending with a sc and dc worked in joining stitch of previous row. Ch 1, turn.
R13) Work 1 sc and 1 dc in first stitch, skip next two stitches. Continue around, finish off.
R14) Join white, sc in each stitch around, finish off.  Leave long tails on each end and use to tie sweater at neckline.

Sleeve
Join red with sl st in bottom center of sleeve hole. Ch 1, work 3 sc, 10 dc, and 3 sc evenly around. Join with sl st to beginning st and finish off.
Join white at bottom center. Ch 1, sc in same space and next space. Sc2tog in next 2 spaces. [Sc in next 2 spaces, sc2tog in next 2 spaces.] Repeat [ ] around. (12 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch and finish off.
Repeat for opposite sleeve.

Trim at bottom of sweater
Working in back loops at bottom, join white with sl st at back of sweater, ch 1. In same place, work 1 sc and 1 dc, skip next stitch. Work 1 sc and 1 dc in next stitch, skip next stitch. Repeat around, ending with a sc and dc in last stitch, join with sl st to beginning st. Fasten off.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Heart Table Runner

Valentines Day is just around the corner and, while most of us don’t decorate all that much, why not whip up a pretty table runner for the occasion?  I found this graph the other day while I was wandering around on pinterest.  It’s designed to be a bookmark, but I thought with a few adjustments it would be a nice table runner.  There aren’t many written directions with the graph, and I made a few changes to make it a table runner, so I am posting it here as a written pattern.

My runner measures 30″ long and 8″ wide.

100 grams of cotton or cotton blend worsted weight yarn {I used (2) balls of Classic Elite Yarns Summer Set- 50 gr/95 yards each}
J/6mm hook

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Foundation Double Crochet (fdc)

Ch 12
R1) Dc into fourth ch from hook and each ch across. (10 stitches) Ch 5, turn.
R2) Dc into fourth ch from hook and each ch/stitch across. When working the last dc into the starting ch, insert hook, pull up a loop, ch 1, then finish the stitch as normal. Fdc 3. (16 stitches) Ch 5, turn.
R3) Dc into fourth ch from hook and the next 8 stitches. Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into each remaining stitch. When working the last dc into the starting ch, insert hook, pull up a loop, ch 1, then finish the stitch as normal. Fdc 3. (22 stitches) Ch 5, turn.
R4) Dc into fourth ch from hook and the next 8 stitches. [Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into next stitch], repeat [] two more times. Dc in each remaining stitch. When working the last dc into the starting ch, insert hook, pull up a loop, ch 1, then finish the stitch as normal. Fdc 3. (28 stitches) Ch 5, turn.
R5) Dc into fourth ch from hook and the next 8 stitches. [Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into the next stitch], repeat [] 4 more times. Dc into each remaining stitch. When working the last dc into the starting ch, insert hook, pull up a loop, ch 1, then finish the stitch as normal. Fdc 3. (34 stitches) Ch 3, turn.
R6) Dc into second stitch and next 5 stitches. [Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into the next stitch], repeat [] 6 more times. Dc into each remaining stitch. Ch 3, turn.
R7) Repeat Row 6.
R8) Dc into second stitch and next 8 stitches. [Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into next stitch]. Repeat [] one time. Dc in next 3 stitches. Repeat [] two more times. Dc into each remaining stitch. Ch 3, turn.
R9) Dc in each dc across, work 2 dc into each ch 2 space. (34 stitches) Ch 3, turn.
R10) Dc in second stitch and next 14 stitches. Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into the next stitch. Dc into each remaining stitch, ch 3, turn.
R11) Dc in second stitch and next 11 stitches. [Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into the next stitch.] Repeat [] two more times. Dc into each remaining stitch across. Ch 3, turn.
R12) Dc in second stitch and next 8 stitches. [Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into the next stitch.] Repeat [] 4 more times. Dc into each remaining stitch across. Ch 3, turn.
R13) Dc in second stitch and next 5 stitches. [Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into the next stitch.] Repeat [] 6 more times. Dc into each remaining stitch across. Ch 3, turn.
R14) Repeat row 13.
R15) Dc into second stitch and next 8 stitches. [Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into next stitch]. Repeat [] one time. Dc in next 3 stitches. Repeat [] two more times. Dc into each remaining stitch. Ch 3, turn.
R16) Dc in each dc across, work 2 dc into each ch 2 space. (34 stitches) Ch 3, turn.
R17-23) Repeat rows 10-16.
R24-30) Repeat rows 10-16.
R31-37) Repeat rows 10-16.
R38-44) Repeat rows 10-16.
R39-43) Repeat rows 10-14. On row 43, end with a ch 1 and turn.
R44) Sl st into first 4 stitches, ch 3. Dc into next stitch and next 5 stitches. [Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into next stitch]. Repeat [] one time. Dc in next 3 stitches. Repeat [] two more times. Dc into next 6 stitches. (28 stitches) Ch 1, turn.
R45) Sl st into first 4 stitches, ch 3. Dc into next stitch and next 20 stitches. (22 stitches) Ch 1, turn.
R46) Sl st into first 4 stitches, ch 3. Dc into next stitch and next 14 stitches. (16 stitches) Ch 1, turn.
R47) Sl st into first 4 stitches, ch 3. Dc into next stitch and next 8 stitches. (10 stitches) Ch 1, turn.

Work sc around entire runner, working 1 sc into the base of each stitch, and 2 sc into the side of each stitch. Join with sl st to beginning sc, finish off.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Herringbone Half Double Sweater for Barbie

Valentines day is coming and in honor of that, I have a few sweater patterns coming for Barbie. This one worked up in pink would make a lovely Valentine’s sweater but of course, you could always choose to make it in another color as well. I also worked one up in a blue variegated sock yarn.

I love the texture this stitch gives to these tiny sweaters!

Stitches used-

Slip Stitch (sl st)
Chain (ch)
Single Crochet (sc)
Single Crochet Together (sc tog) Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all remaining loops on hook.
Herringbone Half Double (hhdc)- Yarn over, insert into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. 3 loops on hook. Pull first loop through second loop on hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook. *Ch 2 does count as a hhdc*
Herringbone Half Double Together (hhdc tog) Yarn over, insert into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Pull first loop through second loop on hook. Yarn over and insert into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Pull first loop through second loop on hook. Yarn over and pull through remaining loops on hook.

Yarn-  #1/superfine/fingering/sock yarn
Hook- 0/3.25 mm
Small button or bead
Needle to weave in ends

Making the bottom rib-work sc in back loops only
Ch 4
Sc in second chain from hook and remaining two chains. Ch 1, turn.
Sc in each stitch across (3 stitches), ch 1, turn. Repeat for a total of 34 rows. At end of last row, ch 1, turn, bring short ends of bottom rib together, join with sl st across.
Rib should measure 5 1/4 inches un-stretched.

Turn piece so that you will be working into ends of rib rows.
R1) Ch 2, hhdc 33 stitches evenly around, (34 stitches total)join with sl st to beginning ch. ch 2, TURN.
R2) Hhdc in each stitch around (do not hhdc into joining sl st on previous row.) (34 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R3-9) Repeat row 2.
R10) Hhdc 5, ch 8, skip next 4 stitches, hhdc in next 14 stitches, ch 8, skip next 4 stitches, hhdc in last 6 stitches. Ch 2, turn. dO NOT JOIN WITH SL ST.
R11) Hhdc in each stitch and chain around. (42 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R12) Hhdc in next stitch, hhdc tog in next two stitches. *Hhdc in next 5 stitches, hhdc tog in next two stitches.* Repeat around, ending with 3 hhdc. (36 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R13) Hhdc in next stitch, hhdc tog in next two stitches, *hhdc in next 3 stitches, hhdc tog in next two stitches* repeat around, ending with 2 hhdc. (29 stitches) Ch 1, turn.
R14) Sc in first two stitches, sc tog twice, sc 4, sc tog twice, sc, sc tog twice, sc 4, sc tog twice, sc 2. When this row is worked, the outside of the sweater should be facing you. If the inside of the sweater is facing, turn sweater inside out before continuing.

Finishing the back opening- turn work and sc 9/10 stitches evenly down one side of back opening, then sc 9/10 stitches evenly up other side of back opening. Ch 4 to 5, then sl st ch to stitch below the top. Finish off.  Attach button at back neck opening.

Sleeves
Right sleeve
R1) Working on right side (outside) of sweater, on right armhole, in bottom 4 stitches skipped earlier, in second stitch from back, join with sl st, ch 2, then work 15 more hhdc evenly around armhole, join with sl st to beginning ch. (16 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R2) Hhdc in each stitch around, join with sl st to beginning ch. Ch 2, turn.
R3) Hhdc in each stitch around until last 2 stitches, hhdc tog in last two stitches. Join with sl st to beginning chain. (15 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R4) Repeat row 2.
R5) Repeat row 3. (14 stitches)
R6) Repeat row 2.
R7) Repeat row 3. (13 stitches)
R8) Repeat row 2.
R9) Repeat row 3. (12 stitches)
R10) Repeat row 2.
R11) Repeat row 3. (11 stitches)
R12) Repeat row 2.
R13) Repeat row 3. (10 stitches)
R14) Repeat row 2.
R15) Repeat row 2. ch 1, do not turn.
R16) Work sc in each stitch around. (10 sc). Join with sl st to beginning st, finish off.

Left sleeve
R1) Working on right side (outside) of sweater, on left armhole, in bottom 4 stitches skipped earlier, in second stitch from front, join with sl st, ch 2, then work 15 more hhdc evenly around armhole, join with sl st to beginning ch. (16 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R2) Hhdc in each stitch around, join with sl st to beginning ch. Ch 2, turn.
R3) Hhdc tog in first two stitches, then hhdc in each remaining stitch around. Join with sl st to beginning ch. (15 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R4) Repeat row 2.
R5) Repeat row 3. (14 stitches)
R6) Repeat row 2.
R7) Repeat row 3. (13 stitches)
R8) Repeat row 2.
R9) Repeat row 3. (12 stitches)
R10) Repeat row 2.
R11) Repeat row 3. (11 stitches)
R12) Repeat row 2.
R13) Repeat row 3. (10 stitches)
R14) Repeat row 2.
R15) Repeat row 2. ch 1, do not turn.
R16) Work sc in each stitch around. (10 sc). Join with sl st to beginning st, finish off.

Sleeve directions are given for right handed crocheters. If you are left handed, work left sleeve using right sleeve instructions and work right sleeve using left sleeve instructions.

Weave in all ends.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

 

Cell Phone Clip Case

A friend of mine has to carry her phone at work and asked me if I could come up with a pattern for a crocheted case with a clip. Of course, the wheels started turning, and this is the result. Because phones come in all different sizes, this is not an exact pattern. I wrote the pattern based on my phone, and have tried to add clear directions on how to make changes to customize it for your phone.
First of all, lets talk about a few things.

The yarn: I personally think a cotton or cotton blend yarn is best suited for this. I can’t really give a good reason for why I think this, I just do, so if you have some other worsted weight yarn that you would like to use, go for it.
The size: Since I used a cotton blend yarn, and cotton may have a tendency to stretch a bit over time, I made my case pretty snug.
The hook: I used an H/5mm to achieve the right size. To get the right size for your phone, you may have to go up or down a hook size or two.
The stitch: I wanted to make this with something a little bit more interesting than just standard sc, but I also needed a stitch that had a minimal starting stitch repeat to make it easy to adjust the size. I also wanted a stitch that had a bit of density to it to help protect the phone. I chose to use the grit stitch.

Ok, lets get to it.

Oh wait, one more thing. For this pattern, the right side of your work is when you see an even number of row sets. In my case, I have 14 rows, so the right side shows 7 row sets.

Worsted weight cotton or cotton blend yarn
H/5 mm hook (or size needed)
Clip 7/8″ x 3″ (I found mine on Ebay from this seller.
Large button (mine was 1 3/8″)

Front:
Ch 25 (or multiple of 2 to equal the length of your phone, plus 3)
R1) Sc in 3rd ch, [skip next ch, 2 sc in next ch], repeat [] to last 2 chains, skip next ch, sc in last ch.
R2) Ch 1, sc in first stitch, [skip next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch] repeat [] across to last stitch and starting ch, skip last stitch and sc in starting ch.
R3-14) Repeat row 2 for a total of 14 rows, or for the number of rows that you need to equal the width of your phone. Make sure that you have worked an even number of rows(10, 12, etc)
Finish off.

Back:
Ch 33 (or multiple of 2 to equal the length of your phone plus 2 inches for top flap, plus 3)
R1) Sc in 3rd ch, [skip next ch, 2 sc in next ch], repeat [] to last 2 chains, skip next ch, sc in last ch.
R2) Ch 1, sc in first stitch, [skip next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch.] Repeat [] across to last stitch and starting ch, skip last stitch and sc in starting ch.
R3-6) Repeat row 2.
R7) Making the buttonhole. Do this step whenever you are at the halfway row, for example, row 5 if you worked 10 rows for your front piece, or row 6 if your front piece is 12 rows. Ch 1, sc in first stitch, ch 3, skip next 3 stitches, [sc in next stitch, skip next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch.] Repeat [] across to last stitch and starting ch, skip last stitch and sc in starting ch.
R8) Repeat row 2 across until you get to the single crochet right before the ch. Skip the sc, work 2 sc into the first ch. Skip next ch, work 2 sc into the next ch. Skip last sc, sc into starting ch.
R9-14) Repeat row 2.
Finish off.

Attaching the clip:
On right side of back piece, count about 11 stitches from the bottom, then center hole of clip at this point. Thread a needle with a length of yarn and, working through hole of clip, stitch it securely to the back piece. You want to make sure that this is stitched on good since this will hold the weight of your phone. See picture below. Leave a starting tail on the wrong side of back piece, and tie starting end and finishing end of yarn in a secure knot, trim.

Clip cover: (clip cover size should not change unless you purchase a different size of clip.)
Ch 13
R1) Sc in 3rd ch, [skip next ch, 2 sc in next ch], repeat [] to last 2 chains, skip next ch, sc in last ch.
R2) Ch 1, sc in first stitch, [skip next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch] repeat [] across to last stitch and starting ch, skip last stitch and sc in starting ch.
R3-6) Repeat row 2.
Finish off, leaving a long tail. Pull cover piece over between clip front and back, with a needle and long tail of yarn, stitch around all sides of the cover piece. Pull yarn to inside, tie and finish off.

Stitching front and back together:
Place front and back pieces with wrong sides facing each other and right sides out. Starting at top of case where two sides meet, join yarn with a slip stitch, ch 1, and sc in each stitch around, stitching through both layers. Continue to sc around flap and join with sl st to beginning st. Finish off, weave in ends.

Adding the button:
Fold flap over to find button placement, stitch on button. Your cell phone clip case is complete!

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Jiffy Cowl

The Jiffy Cowl is so named because not only can it be worked up “in a jiffy”, but it also uses Jiffy yarn by Lion Brand. Even better, it only uses one! 3 oz. skein. The end result is a soft, comfortable cowl that still manages to have a bit of a structured look.

My mom gave me these skeins of yarn and they were all autumn colors but I think they would look great in any color.  Hey, they are fast and easy, go ahead and get a couple of different colors to try!

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)

Cowl measures 28 inches around by 7 1/2 inches wide.

1 Skein Jiffy yarn by Lion Brand (#5 bulky, 3 oz. skein)
7 mm hook

Ch 80, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R1) Ch 1, sc in back bump of each chain around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R2) Ch 2, dc in same stitch. [Skip next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch.] Repeat between [] around, ending with a skipped stitch. Join with a sl st to beginning chain.
R3) Ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R4-15) Repeat rows 2 and 3, ending with row 3. Finish off, weave in ends.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Chunky Hat and Infinity Scarf Set

So far, 2018 has been a very cold year. We have had rivers and lakes freezing over here in our corner of the world that haven’t frozen for at least 20 years. Everyone has been dusting off their ice skates, bundling themselves up, and heading out for some winter fun. But me, I have been inside with my coffee and my yarn, crocheting away and creating something super warm and cozy for you to bundle up in.

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Double Crochet (dc)
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc)
Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc)

(2) skeins Lion Brand Country in Quarry (#6 super bulky, 5 oz. each)
N/9mm Hook

Hat (make first)
Ch 4.
R1) Work 10 dc into first ch made. Sl st to first dc.
R2) Ch 2, work 2 dc into the back loop of each stitch around. (20 stitches) Join with sl st to first stitch.
R3) Ch 2, *work 1 dc into back loop of first stitch, 2 dc into back loop of next stitch.* Repeat between *’s around. (30 stitches) Join with sl st to first stitch.
R4) Ch 2, *work 1 dc into back loop of first two stitches, 2 dc into back loop of next stitch.* Repeat between *’s around. (40 stitches) Join with sl st to first stitch.
R5-10) Ch 2, dc into back loop of each stitch around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R11) Ch 2, *fpdc around first stitch, bpdc around next stitch.* Repeat between *’s around. Finish off, weave in ends.

Infinity Scarf (measures approx. 50 inches around and 9 inches wide)
Ch 21.
R1) Dc into back bump of third chain from hook and each ch across. (20 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R2) Dc in each stitch across. Ch 2, turn.
R3) Dc in back loop of each stitch across. Ch 2, turn.
R4-68) Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 68 rows, or until yarn runs out, ending on a row 2 repeat and making sure to leave a long enough tail to sl st ends together.
At end of last row, ch 1, turn, bring short ends together and join with a slip stitch worked in back loops across. Finish off, weave in ends.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

The “Lacy” Hat

As much as I like designing patterns, sometimes I just want to whip up something that someone else has already figured out. Enter this hat. I found a pattern that I liked and that looked like it would be fairly quick to stitch. I noticed there were some comments on the gauge of the pattern, so I stitched and checked and everything seemed right on. Well, it wasn’t. A good half way through the hat, and it was just too small. I frogged, went with a bigger hook, tried again, and no. Then I decided to read the comments that people had left on the pattern, and it appears that I was not alone. It was a lovely hat, and whatever she did obviously worked for the designer, but it just wasn’t going to work for me. Since I was already in hat mode, I decided to keep playing with the yarn that I had frogged and see what I could come up with. And the “Lacy” Hat was born.

K/7mm Hook
2 oz. Worsted Weight yarn

Stitches used:
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Half Double Crochet (hdc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc)

Ch 10.
Hdc in back loop of third chain from hook and each ch across. Ch 2, turn.
Hdc in back loop of second stitch from hook and each stitch across, including the top of the turning ch, ch 2, turn. (9 stitches)
Repeat for a total of 36 rows. Un-stretched, this should measure 16″ to 17″ long x 2 1/2″ wide.
Join short ends with a sl st across.
R1) Ch 1, turn work so you are now working into the ends of the rows. Sc 3 stitches for every two rows around. (54 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning sc.
R2) Ch 2, dc in same stitch. Skip two stitches, work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in next stitch. Skip next two stitches, dc in next stitch. Repeat around, ending with 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Skip last two stitches and join with a sl st to beginning stitch.
R3-7) Ch 2, fpdc in first dc, in ch 1 space work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Repeat around. Join with sl st to beginning st.
R8)  Ch 2, fpdc in first stitch, in ch 1 space work 1 dc, ch 1, 1dc. Repeat around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R9)  Ch 2, fpdc in first stitch, dc in ch 1 space. Repeat around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R10)  Ch 2, Fpdc in first stitch, skip next stitch, fpdc in next stitch. Repeat around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
Finish off, leaving a long tail of yarn. Thread needle with yarn, stitch evenly around and pull up yarn to close hole. Pull yarn to inside, tie tight and weave in ends.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Preteen Slouchy Hat

Today’s pattern is an easy hat for pre-teens that is made from Homespun yarn by Lion Brand. I’ve seen a lot of comments from people that hate this yarn because it is hard to see your stitches. This pattern helps to eliminate that problem. I designed this hat to fit my 3 nieces, who range in age from 8-12. It fit all of them fine. I have a small head and it even fit me, but with not as much slouch.

While we are talking hats, have you ever checked out All Free Crochet?  They have tons of great hat patterns, plus so much more.


3 oz. Homespun by Lion Brand yarn
N/9mm hook
Iron on or sew on embellishment
Large eye needle
Sewing needle and thread

 
All stitches are worked in the back loop only. Ch 2 does not count as a stitch.
Ch 3.
R1) In first chain made, work 10 hdc. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R2) Ch 2, work 2 hdc in each stitch around. (20 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R3) Ch 2, hdc in same stitch, 2 hdc in next stitch. Continue working 1 hdc, then 2 hdc around. (30 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R4) Ch 2, hdc in same, hdc in next stitch, 2 hdc in next stitch. Continue working 1 hdc, 1 hdc, 2 hdc around. (40 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R5) Ch 2, hdc in same stitch, hdc in next stitch, hdc in next stitch, 2 hdc in next stitch. Continue working 1 hdc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc, 2 hdc around. (50 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch. At this point your circle should measure about 6 1/2 inches across.
R6-18) Ch 2, hdc in first stitch and each stitch around.  Join with sl st to top of beginning stitch.
Finish off, weave in ends.
Pin embellishment in place, with thread and needle, stitch around outside edge with small stitches.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way.  You may link to my pattern from another site.  You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.