Polish Star Pillow

 

I had intended to save this pattern until it was closer to spring, but we have had warm weather the last two days and we actually heard peep frogs this evening!  So now I have spring fever and decided to go ahead and share this.  Of course, it’s calling for snow again tomorrow but oh well.

I ran across this stitch and had to try it since it combines two things that I love doing- crocheting and weaving!  The only instructions that I could find were in Polish. Sadly, I cannot read that and Google Translate never knows how to translate crochet instructions.  (Although some of it’s attempts to do so can be pretty funny!)  There was also a picture and a graph of sorts.  I messed around with it, figured it out, and hopefully my instructions will make the whole process simple for everyone.

One thing I will mention is that I found it easier to weave the loops as I went.  It is up to you whether you want to wait and weave them all at the end or weave as you go.

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Foundation Double Crochet (fdc)

You will need:

7 oz. Worsted Weight Yarn-turquoise (color A)
7 oz. Worsted Weight Yarn- pink (color B)
or (2) 7 oz. skeins of worsted weight yarn in colors of your choice
J/6mm hook
18″ pillow form
Needle to weave in ends

I worked two rows across the same way (one row of each color), then carried my yarn up the side and worked two rows (one of each color) across the opposite way. You don’t have to work it this way, but it will save a lot of weaving in ends and the carried yarn will be hidden in the border.

Pillow Front
With Color A, Fdc 60. This should measure 17″.
R1) Ch 3, dc in second stitch and next two stitches. [Ch 10, dc in next 4 stitches.] Repeat between []’s across.
R2) Join color B. Ch 3, dc in second stitch and next stitch. [Skip next stitch, ch 10. Dc 2 in next stitch, dc in next two stitches, dc 2 in next stitch. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next two stitches.] Repeat between []’s. Dc in last stitch.
R3) With color A, ch 3, dc in second stitch, dc 2 in next stitch. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next 4 stitches, skip next stitch. [Ch 10, dc 2 in next two stitches. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next 4 stitches, skip next stitch.] Repeat between []’s across. Ch 10, dc 2 in next stitch, dc in each of last two stitches.
R4) Color B, ch 3, dc in second stitch, dc in next stitch, dc 2 in next stitch. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next 2 stitches, skip next stitch. [Ch 10. Dc 2 in next stitch, dc in next 2 stitches, dc 2 in next stitch. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next 2 stitches, skip next stitch.] Repeat between []’s across. Ch 10, dc 2 in next stitch, dc in each of last 3.
R5) Color A, ch 3, dc in second stitch and next two stitches. [Skip next stitch, ch 10. Dc 2 in next 2 stitches. Ch 10, skip next stitch, dc in next 4 stitches.] Repeat between []’s across.
R6-9) Repeat rows 2-5.
R10-13) Repeat rows 2-5.
R14-17) Repeat rows 2-5.
R18-21) Repeat rows 2-5.
R22-25) Repeat rows 2-5.
R26-27) Repeat rows 2-3.
R28) Color B, ch 3, dc in second dc and each dc across. (60 stitches) Finish off. Weave all loops together before completing row 29, including loops from row 27.
R29) Color A, Ch 3, Dc in second stitch and next stitch. When working dc in next stitch, pass needle through top of loop from row 27, then complete dc as normal. Dc in each stitch across, catching corresponding loop from row 27 in every fourth stitch.
Border) Ch 3, turn. Dc in second stitch and each stitch across. Work 2 dc at corner, then dc 2 into every stitch down the side. Work 2 dc in corner, then dc in each stitch across. Work 2 dc at corner, then dc 2 into every stitch up other side. Work 2 dc in corner, join with sl st to beginning ch. Finish off.

Weaving the loops together
*This graph should explain why I have never been, am not now, nor will I ever claim to be, an artist, lol. There are some amazing artists in my family but I am NOT one of them!
Hopefully though, even though it lacks in artistic value, it will still help to make sense of the weaving process. Black ink represents the turquoise and red ink represents the pink. I did not show the fdc row on this graph.

And since I couldn’t figure out any way to get a full graph of the pillow to fit one photo and still be clear we are going to work off of a smaller graph.  The principle will still be the same, you will just have more repeats across than what we will be showing.

Ok, let’s start weaving.   When working a row, you will be working the loops of that row and the loops of the previous row.

 

R1)  Skip loop A.  Pull loop C through loop B.  Pull loop E through loop D.  Skip loop F.

R2)  Give loop A  a twist, then pull loop G through loop A.  Pull loop H through loop C.  Pull loop I through loop B.  Pull loop J through loop E.  Pull loop K through loop D.  Pull loop L through loop F.

Picture shows the twist.

R3)  Pull loop A through loop G.  Pull loop B through loop H.  Pull loop C through loop I.  Pull loop D through loop J. Pull loop E through loop K.  Pull loop F through loop L.  Still working on row 3, go back and pull loop B through loop A.  Pull loop D through loop C.  Pull loop F through loop E.

R4)  Pull loop G through loop B.  Pull loop H through loop A.  Pull loop I through loop D.  Pull loop J through loop C.  Pull loop K through loop F.  Pull loop L through loop E.

 

R5)  Pull loop A through loop G.  Pull loop B through H.  Pull loop C through loop I.  Pull loop D through loop J.  Pull loop E through loop K.  Pull loop F through loop L.   Still working on row 5, go back and pull loops through each other as directed in row 1.

The pattern will now repeat itself, although it will not be necessary to continue to twist the beginning and ending loops on row 2. (The twist just helped to hold the stitching together on the first row since those loops did not loop into anything else.)

Pillow back

R1) With color A, ch 3, work 15 dc into first ch made. Sl st to top of beginning chain.
R2) Ch 2. In same stitch work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. [Dc in next 3 stitches. In next stitch work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat [] 2 more times. Dc in last 3 stitches, join with sl st to beginning ch.
R3) Ch 2, dc in next stitch. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 7 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, dc in last 5 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning ch.
R4) Ch 2, dc in next 3 stitches. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 11 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 7 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain. Finish off.
R5) Join Color B in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 15 stitches. In ch 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 15 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R6) Ch 2, dc in next space. [In chain 1 corner, work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 19 stitches.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 17 stitches, sl st to beginning ch. Finish off.
R7) Join Color A in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 23 stitches. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 23 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R8) Ch 2, dc in next stitch. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 27 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, dc in last 25 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning ch.
R9) Ch 2, dc in next 3 stitches. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 31 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 27 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R10) Ch 2, dc in next 5 stitches. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 35 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 29 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain. Finish off.
R11) Join Color B in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 39 stitches. In ch 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 39 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R12) Ch 2, dc in next space. [In chain 1 corner, work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 43 stitches.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 41 stitches, sl st to beginning ch. Finish off.
R13) Join Color A in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 47 stitches. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 47 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R14) Ch 2, dc in next stitch. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 51 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, dc in last 49 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning ch.
R15) Ch 2, dc in next 3 stitches. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 55 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 51 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain. Finish off.
R16) Join Color B in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 59 stitches. In ch 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 59 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain. Do not finish off.

Weave in all remaining ends on pillow back and front. Place pillow top and bottom together, wrong side facing each other. (Right side out.) Ch 1, then sc evenly around with color B, working through the stitches on both the pillow back and front. Once you have worked around 3 sides, insert the pillow form and stitch together the last side. Ch 1, turn. Sc in first stitch. [Skip next stitch, 5 dc in next stitch. Skip next stitch, sc in next stitch.] Repeat around, ending with 5 dc and a skippped stitch, then join with a sl st to beginning sc. Finish off and weave in remaining end. Your pillow is done!

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Valentine’s Heart Sweater for Barbie

I’ve got one more Barbie sweater coming at you for Valentines Day!  This one is a short sleeve style with white trim, a tie closure in the back, and a big white heart on the front.

Again, this pattern assumes that you have knowledge of how to change colors and carry yarn.

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog)
Double Crochet (dc)

Supplies
#1/Fingering weight yarn in white and red
0/3.25 steel hook

Ch 33, join with sl st to beginning ch. Ch 2.
R1) Dc in each ch around, join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R2) Ch 1, sc in first 16 stitches, join white and sc 1, pick up red and sc in last 16 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1, turn.
R3) Skip joining stitch, sc in next 15 stitches, pick up white and sc 3 stitches, pick up red and sc in last 15 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1, turn.
R4) Skip joining stitch, sc in next 14 stitches, pick up white and sc 5 stitches, pick up red and sc in last 14 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1, turn.
R5) Skip joining stitch, sc in next 13 stitches, pick up white and sc 7 stitches, pick up red and sc in last 13 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1, turn.
R6) Skip joining stitch, sc in next 12 stitches, pick up white and sc 9 stitches, pick up red and sc in last 12 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1, turn.
R7) Repeat row 6.
R8) Repeat row 6.
R9) Skip joining stitch, sc in next 13 stitches, pick up white and sc 3 stitches, pick up red and sc 1 stitch, pick up white and sc 3 stitches, pick up red and sc in last 13 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st. Do not turn.
R10) Ch 2, dc in each stitch around, working 1 extra stitch at back opening of sweater for a total of 34 stitches. Do not turn.
R11) Ch 1, sc in first 6 stitches, ch 8, skip 4 stitches, sc in next 14 stitches, ch 8, skip 4 stitches, sc in last 6 stitches. Ch 1, turn.
R12) Work 1 sc and 1 dc in first stitch, skip next stitch. Continue around, ending with a sc and dc worked in joining stitch of previous row. Ch 1, turn.
R13) Work 1 sc and 1 dc in first stitch, skip next two stitches. Continue around, finish off.
R14) Join white, sc in each stitch around, finish off.  Leave long tails on each end and use to tie sweater at neckline.

Sleeve
Join red with sl st in bottom center of sleeve hole. Ch 1, work 3 sc, 10 dc, and 3 sc evenly around. Join with sl st to beginning st and finish off.
Join white at bottom center. Ch 1, sc in same space and next space. Sc2tog in next 2 spaces. [Sc in next 2 spaces, sc2tog in next 2 spaces.] Repeat [ ] around. (12 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch and finish off.
Repeat for opposite sleeve.

Trim at bottom of sweater
Working in back loops at bottom, join white with sl st at back of sweater, ch 1. In same place, work 1 sc and 1 dc, skip next stitch. Work 1 sc and 1 dc in next stitch, skip next stitch. Repeat around, ending with a sc and dc in last stitch, join with sl st to beginning st. Fasten off.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Heart Table Runner

Valentines Day is just around the corner and, while most of us don’t decorate all that much, why not whip up a pretty table runner for the occasion?  I found this graph the other day while I was wandering around on pinterest.  It’s designed to be a bookmark, but I thought with a few adjustments it would be a nice table runner.  There aren’t many written directions with the graph, and I made a few changes to make it a table runner, so I am posting it here as a written pattern.

My runner measures 30″ long and 8″ wide.

100 grams of cotton or cotton blend worsted weight yarn {I used (2) balls of Classic Elite Yarns Summer Set- 50 gr/95 yards each}
J/6mm hook

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Foundation Double Crochet (fdc)

Ch 12
R1) Dc into fourth ch from hook and each ch across. (10 stitches) Ch 5, turn.
R2) Dc into fourth ch from hook and each ch/stitch across. When working the last dc into the starting ch, insert hook, pull up a loop, ch 1, then finish the stitch as normal. Fdc 3. (16 stitches) Ch 5, turn.
R3) Dc into fourth ch from hook and the next 8 stitches. Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into each remaining stitch. When working the last dc into the starting ch, insert hook, pull up a loop, ch 1, then finish the stitch as normal. Fdc 3. (22 stitches) Ch 5, turn.
R4) Dc into fourth ch from hook and the next 8 stitches. [Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into next stitch], repeat [] two more times. Dc in each remaining stitch. When working the last dc into the starting ch, insert hook, pull up a loop, ch 1, then finish the stitch as normal. Fdc 3. (28 stitches) Ch 5, turn.
R5) Dc into fourth ch from hook and the next 8 stitches. [Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into the next stitch], repeat [] 4 more times. Dc into each remaining stitch. When working the last dc into the starting ch, insert hook, pull up a loop, ch 1, then finish the stitch as normal. Fdc 3. (34 stitches) Ch 3, turn.
R6) Dc into second stitch and next 5 stitches. [Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into the next stitch], repeat [] 6 more times. Dc into each remaining stitch. Ch 3, turn.
R7) Repeat Row 6.
R8) Dc into second stitch and next 8 stitches. [Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into next stitch]. Repeat [] one time. Dc in next 3 stitches. Repeat [] two more times. Dc into each remaining stitch. Ch 3, turn.
R9) Dc in each dc across, work 2 dc into each ch 2 space. (34 stitches) Ch 3, turn.
R10) Dc in second stitch and next 14 stitches. Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into the next stitch. Dc into each remaining stitch, ch 3, turn.
R11) Dc in second stitch and next 11 stitches. [Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into the next stitch.] Repeat [] two more times. Dc into each remaining stitch across. Ch 3, turn.
R12) Dc in second stitch and next 8 stitches. [Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into the next stitch.] Repeat [] 4 more times. Dc into each remaining stitch across. Ch 3, turn.
R13) Dc in second stitch and next 5 stitches. [Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into the next stitch.] Repeat [] 6 more times. Dc into each remaining stitch across. Ch 3, turn.
R14) Repeat row 13.
R15) Dc into second stitch and next 8 stitches. [Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into next stitch]. Repeat [] one time. Dc in next 3 stitches. Repeat [] two more times. Dc into each remaining stitch. Ch 3, turn.
R16) Dc in each dc across, work 2 dc into each ch 2 space. (34 stitches) Ch 3, turn.
R17-23) Repeat rows 10-16.
R24-30) Repeat rows 10-16.
R31-37) Repeat rows 10-16.
R38-44) Repeat rows 10-16.
R39-43) Repeat rows 10-14. On row 43, end with a ch 1 and turn.
R44) Sl st into first 4 stitches, ch 3. Dc into next stitch and next 5 stitches. [Ch 2, skip the next two stitches, dc into next stitch]. Repeat [] one time. Dc in next 3 stitches. Repeat [] two more times. Dc into next 6 stitches. (28 stitches) Ch 1, turn.
R45) Sl st into first 4 stitches, ch 3. Dc into next stitch and next 20 stitches. (22 stitches) Ch 1, turn.
R46) Sl st into first 4 stitches, ch 3. Dc into next stitch and next 14 stitches. (16 stitches) Ch 1, turn.
R47) Sl st into first 4 stitches, ch 3. Dc into next stitch and next 8 stitches. (10 stitches) Ch 1, turn.

Work sc around entire runner, working 1 sc into the base of each stitch, and 2 sc into the side of each stitch. Join with sl st to beginning sc, finish off.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Herringbone Half Double Sweater for Barbie

Valentines day is coming and in honor of that, I have a few sweater patterns coming for Barbie. This one worked up in pink would make a lovely Valentine’s sweater but of course, you could always choose to make it in another color as well. I also worked one up in a blue variegated sock yarn.

I love the texture this stitch gives to these tiny sweaters!

Stitches used-

Slip Stitch (sl st)
Chain (ch)
Single Crochet (sc)
Single Crochet Together (sc tog) Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all remaining loops on hook.
Herringbone Half Double (hhdc)- Yarn over, insert into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. 3 loops on hook. Pull first loop through second loop on hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook. *Ch 2 does count as a hhdc*
Herringbone Half Double Together (hhdc tog) Yarn over, insert into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Pull first loop through second loop on hook. Yarn over and insert into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Pull first loop through second loop on hook. Yarn over and pull through remaining loops on hook.

Yarn-  #1/superfine/fingering/sock yarn
Hook- 0/3.25 mm
Small button or bead
Needle to weave in ends

Making the bottom rib-work sc in back loops only
Ch 4
Sc in second chain from hook and remaining two chains. Ch 1, turn.
Sc in each stitch across (3 stitches), ch 1, turn. Repeat for a total of 34 rows. At end of last row, ch 1, turn, bring short ends of bottom rib together, join with sl st across.
Rib should measure 5 1/4 inches un-stretched.

Turn piece so that you will be working into ends of rib rows.
R1) Ch 2, hhdc 33 stitches evenly around, (34 stitches total)join with sl st to beginning ch. ch 2, TURN.
R2) Hhdc in each stitch around (do not hhdc into joining sl st on previous row.) (34 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R3-9) Repeat row 2.
R10) Hhdc 5, ch 8, skip next 4 stitches, hhdc in next 14 stitches, ch 8, skip next 4 stitches, hhdc in last 6 stitches. Ch 2, turn. dO NOT JOIN WITH SL ST.
R11) Hhdc in each stitch and chain around. (42 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R12) Hhdc in next stitch, hhdc tog in next two stitches. *Hhdc in next 5 stitches, hhdc tog in next two stitches.* Repeat around, ending with 3 hhdc. (36 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R13) Hhdc in next stitch, hhdc tog in next two stitches, *hhdc in next 3 stitches, hhdc tog in next two stitches* repeat around, ending with 2 hhdc. (29 stitches) Ch 1, turn.
R14) Sc in first two stitches, sc tog twice, sc 4, sc tog twice, sc, sc tog twice, sc 4, sc tog twice, sc 2. When this row is worked, the outside of the sweater should be facing you. If the inside of the sweater is facing, turn sweater inside out before continuing.

Finishing the back opening- turn work and sc 9/10 stitches evenly down one side of back opening, then sc 9/10 stitches evenly up other side of back opening. Ch 4 to 5, then sl st ch to stitch below the top. Finish off.  Attach button at back neck opening.

Sleeves
Right sleeve
R1) Working on right side (outside) of sweater, on right armhole, in bottom 4 stitches skipped earlier, in second stitch from back, join with sl st, ch 2, then work 15 more hhdc evenly around armhole, join with sl st to beginning ch. (16 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R2) Hhdc in each stitch around, join with sl st to beginning ch. Ch 2, turn.
R3) Hhdc in each stitch around until last 2 stitches, hhdc tog in last two stitches. Join with sl st to beginning chain. (15 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R4) Repeat row 2.
R5) Repeat row 3. (14 stitches)
R6) Repeat row 2.
R7) Repeat row 3. (13 stitches)
R8) Repeat row 2.
R9) Repeat row 3. (12 stitches)
R10) Repeat row 2.
R11) Repeat row 3. (11 stitches)
R12) Repeat row 2.
R13) Repeat row 3. (10 stitches)
R14) Repeat row 2.
R15) Repeat row 2. ch 1, do not turn.
R16) Work sc in each stitch around. (10 sc). Join with sl st to beginning st, finish off.

Left sleeve
R1) Working on right side (outside) of sweater, on left armhole, in bottom 4 stitches skipped earlier, in second stitch from front, join with sl st, ch 2, then work 15 more hhdc evenly around armhole, join with sl st to beginning ch. (16 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R2) Hhdc in each stitch around, join with sl st to beginning ch. Ch 2, turn.
R3) Hhdc tog in first two stitches, then hhdc in each remaining stitch around. Join with sl st to beginning ch. (15 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R4) Repeat row 2.
R5) Repeat row 3. (14 stitches)
R6) Repeat row 2.
R7) Repeat row 3. (13 stitches)
R8) Repeat row 2.
R9) Repeat row 3. (12 stitches)
R10) Repeat row 2.
R11) Repeat row 3. (11 stitches)
R12) Repeat row 2.
R13) Repeat row 3. (10 stitches)
R14) Repeat row 2.
R15) Repeat row 2. ch 1, do not turn.
R16) Work sc in each stitch around. (10 sc). Join with sl st to beginning st, finish off.

Sleeve directions are given for right handed crocheters. If you are left handed, work left sleeve using right sleeve instructions and work right sleeve using left sleeve instructions.

Weave in all ends.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

 

Cell Phone Clip Case

A friend of mine has to carry her phone at work and asked me if I could come up with a pattern for a crocheted case with a clip. Of course, the wheels started turning, and this is the result. Because phones come in all different sizes, this is not an exact pattern. I wrote the pattern based on my phone, and have tried to add clear directions on how to make changes to customize it for your phone.
First of all, lets talk about a few things.

The yarn: I personally think a cotton or cotton blend yarn is best suited for this. I can’t really give a good reason for why I think this, I just do, so if you have some other worsted weight yarn that you would like to use, go for it.
The size: Since I used a cotton blend yarn, and cotton may have a tendency to stretch a bit over time, I made my case pretty snug.
The hook: I used an H/5mm to achieve the right size. To get the right size for your phone, you may have to go up or down a hook size or two.
The stitch: I wanted to make this with something a little bit more interesting than just standard sc, but I also needed a stitch that had a minimal starting stitch repeat to make it easy to adjust the size. I also wanted a stitch that had a bit of density to it to help protect the phone. I chose to use the grit stitch.

Ok, lets get to it.

Oh wait, one more thing. For this pattern, the right side of your work is when you see an even number of row sets. In my case, I have 14 rows, so the right side shows 7 row sets.

Worsted weight cotton or cotton blend yarn
H/5 mm hook (or size needed)
Clip 7/8″ x 3″ (I found mine on Ebay from this seller.
Large button (mine was 1 3/8″)

Front:
Ch 25 (or multiple of 2 to equal the length of your phone, plus 3)
R1) Sc in 3rd ch, [skip next ch, 2 sc in next ch], repeat [] to last 2 chains, skip next ch, sc in last ch.
R2) Ch 1, sc in first stitch, [skip next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch] repeat [] across to last stitch and starting ch, skip last stitch and sc in starting ch.
R3-14) Repeat row 2 for a total of 14 rows, or for the number of rows that you need to equal the width of your phone. Make sure that you have worked an even number of rows(10, 12, etc)
Finish off.

Back:
Ch 33 (or multiple of 2 to equal the length of your phone plus 2 inches for top flap, plus 3)
R1) Sc in 3rd ch, [skip next ch, 2 sc in next ch], repeat [] to last 2 chains, skip next ch, sc in last ch.
R2) Ch 1, sc in first stitch, [skip next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch.] Repeat [] across to last stitch and starting ch, skip last stitch and sc in starting ch.
R3-6) Repeat row 2.
R7) Making the buttonhole. Do this step whenever you are at the halfway row, for example, row 5 if you worked 10 rows for your front piece, or row 6 if your front piece is 12 rows. Ch 1, sc in first stitch, ch 3, skip next 3 stitches, [sc in next stitch, skip next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch.] Repeat [] across to last stitch and starting ch, skip last stitch and sc in starting ch.
R8) Repeat row 2 across until you get to the single crochet right before the ch. Skip the sc, work 2 sc into the first ch. Skip next ch, work 2 sc into the next ch. Skip last sc, sc into starting ch.
R9-14) Repeat row 2.
Finish off.

Attaching the clip:
On right side of back piece, count about 11 stitches from the bottom, then center hole of clip at this point. Thread a needle with a length of yarn and, working through hole of clip, stitch it securely to the back piece. You want to make sure that this is stitched on good since this will hold the weight of your phone. See picture below. Leave a starting tail on the wrong side of back piece, and tie starting end and finishing end of yarn in a secure knot, trim.

Clip cover: (clip cover size should not change unless you purchase a different size of clip.)
Ch 13
R1) Sc in 3rd ch, [skip next ch, 2 sc in next ch], repeat [] to last 2 chains, skip next ch, sc in last ch.
R2) Ch 1, sc in first stitch, [skip next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch] repeat [] across to last stitch and starting ch, skip last stitch and sc in starting ch.
R3-6) Repeat row 2.
Finish off, leaving a long tail. Pull cover piece over between clip front and back, with a needle and long tail of yarn, stitch around all sides of the cover piece. Pull yarn to inside, tie and finish off.

Stitching front and back together:
Place front and back pieces with wrong sides facing each other and right sides out. Starting at top of case where two sides meet, join yarn with a slip stitch, ch 1, and sc in each stitch around, stitching through both layers. Continue to sc around flap and join with sl st to beginning st. Finish off, weave in ends.

Adding the button:
Fold flap over to find button placement, stitch on button. Your cell phone clip case is complete!

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Jiffy Cowl

The Jiffy Cowl is so named because not only can it be worked up “in a jiffy”, but it also uses Jiffy yarn by Lion Brand. Even better, it only uses one! 3 oz. skein. The end result is a soft, comfortable cowl that still manages to have a bit of a structured look.

My mom gave me these skeins of yarn and they were all autumn colors but I think they would look great in any color.  Hey, they are fast and easy, go ahead and get a couple of different colors to try!

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)

Cowl measures 28 inches around by 7 1/2 inches wide.

1 Skein Jiffy yarn by Lion Brand (#5 bulky, 3 oz. skein)
7 mm hook

Ch 80, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R1) Ch 1, sc in back bump of each chain around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R2) Ch 2, dc in same stitch. [Skip next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch.] Repeat between [] around, ending with a skipped stitch. Join with a sl st to beginning chain.
R3) Ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R4-15) Repeat rows 2 and 3, ending with row 3. Finish off, weave in ends.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Navy/Cream Small Throw


I bought the yarn used here with an entirely different project in mind. I quickly realized two things. A) I hadn’t bought nearly enough for that project, and B) the original project was going to end up being way too expensive with this yarn. I’m still excited about creating that original pattern and I’m still planning on doing it, but in a more affordable fashion. Until then, I came up with this smaller blanket that would be great as a lap throw, travel blanket, or even a play mat/blanket for baby.

Blanket measures 42″ x 46″.

(2) skeins LionBrand Thick and Quick in Fisherman- 12 oz./223 yd each
(2) skeins LionBrand Thick and Quick in Navy- 12 oz./223 yd each
N/9mm hook

Stitches used:
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Foundation Double Crochet (fdc)
Double Crochet (dc)

R1) With cream, Fdc 84.
R2-4) Ch 2, turn, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R5-8) Join navy, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R9-12) Join cream, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R13-16) Join navy, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R17-20) Join cream, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R21-24) Join navy, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R25-28) Join cream, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R29-32) Join navy, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R33-36) Join cream, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R37-40) Join navy, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R41-44) Join cream, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R45-48) Join navy, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R49-52) Join cream, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
Border) Join navy, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across. Work 2 sc in corner, then 2 sc in side of each dc down side of blanket. Work 2 sc in corner, then one dc in each stitch across the bottom edge of blanket. Work 2 sc in corner, then 2 sc in side of each dc down side of blanket. Work 2 sc in corner, join with sl st to beginning chain. To save weaving in ends if you did not carry your yarn, work over the ends when working the sc down the side of the blanket. Finish off and weave in remaining end.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Mittens Garland


Hi all, it’s a new week, a new (almost) month, and time for a new project! I came across some graph patterns to make trims and thought that with a few changes they would make adorable garlands. Once I got started on the idea of garlands, I couldn’t stop thinking so, at least for a while, I plan to have a new garland pattern available every week. The ones for December, will of course, be Christmas ideas.

Today’s garland is mittens! These garlands are great scrap busters and would also be easy projects for kids who are learning crochet. Bonus on this one, the mittens worked up individually would make adorable ornaments as well.

 

Worsted weight yarn- small amounts in various colors. Great scrap busting project!
Hook- I or J (I used an I but if you crochet a bit tight like me a J is probably a better choice.)
Large eye needle.

Stitches used-
Slip stitch (sl st)
Chain (ch)
Single crochet (sc)
Single crochet 2 together (sc2tog)- Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Color A-
Ch 9.
1) Sc in second ch and each ch across. (8 sc) Ch 1, turn.
2) Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn.
3) Repeat row 2.
4) Sc in each stitch across, working 2 sc in last stitch. (9sc) Ch 1, turn.
5) Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn.
6) 2 sc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches. (7 sc) Ch 1, turn.
7-10) Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn.
11) Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 3 stitches, sc2tog, ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
12) Sc2tog, 1 sc in next stitch, sc2tog. (3 sc)
Finish off.

Color B-
1) In row 5, picking up where color A left off, in next stitch, join with sl st, ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc in next stitch, 2 sc in last stitch. (4 sc) Ch 1, turn.
2) Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.
3) Sc2tog twice.
Finish off.

To create wrist and loop of mitten, still with color B, on side opposite of thumb, join with sl st to side of first row. Ch 5, sc in back loop of each st (starting chain) across. (8 sc)
Finish off, weave in ends.

To create a mitten pair, after stitching the chain that will create the loop, pull the chain and your working yarn through the loop of the first mitten, then continue with working the sc into the back loops across.

To join mittens at the thumb, working in the back side, pull a small piece of yarn through edge of each thumb, tie tightly and trim closely.

If using all mitten pairs, sl st to top edge of end mitten, ch 8, join with sl st at same spot. Tie ends tightly, trim closely.
Alternate method would be to leave single mittens at the ends of the garland, and use the existing loops to hang.

These will probably need to be blocked a bit.  Or give them a QUICK press with a steam iron on the backside.

 

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way.  You may link to my pattern from another site.  You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.