- admin 4 Comments

Simple Slippers

Spring just can’t seem to quite make it here this year.  We had a few teaser days and then straight back to cold.  Maybe soon, but until then, here is a simple slipper pattern to keep your feet warm.

I didn’t try to color pool the yarn when I made these, but it did kind of happen.

I am the queen of cold feet, I can have ice cold feet in the middle of summer, so I am loving these!

Supplies
1 skein Loops & Threads Impeccable (3.5 oz./192 yds.) I used Seaside Ombre. (You should have a bit left over.)
H/5 mm hook

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Double Crochet (dc)
Double Crochet 2 Together (dc2tog)
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc)
Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc)

In round 1-13, ch 2 does not count as a stitch. In rows 14-20, ch 2 does count as a stitch.
Ch 3
R1) In first ch made, dc 10. Join with sl st to beginning st. Ch 2.
R2) 2 Dc in each stitch around. (20 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 2.
R3) Dc in first stitch, 2 dc in next stitch. [dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch] Repeat [ ] around. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 2. (30 stitches)
R4-13) Dc in each stitch around, Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 2.
R14-19) Dc in second stitch and next 18 stitches. (20 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R20) Dc in second stitch and next 6 stitches. Dc2tog in next 4 stitches. (2 dc2tog worked) Dc in remaining 8 stitches. Finish off, leaving a long tail.
With large needle and using the long tail of yarn, stitch up the back seam of the slipper.

The cuff- Ch 2 does not count as a stitch on the cuff.
R1) At back of slipper, join yarn with sl st, ch 2. Work 2 dc into the side of each dc, and 1 dc into each dc around. (34 stitches) Join with sl st to top of beginning st. Ch 2.
R2) Work alternating fpdc and bpdc around. (17 fpdc and 17 bpdc) Join with sl st to beginning st. Ch 2.
R3) Repeat row 2, working fpdc in previous fpdc and bpdc in previous bpdc. Join with sl st to beginning st. Finish off, weave in ends.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

- admin 4 Comments

Just Hatched c2c Baby Blanket

How absolutely cute is this for a newborn?  While this blanket does have a “spring chicken” or Easter vibe to it I think it would be fun for anytime of the year.  Make it along with my Bunny Pillow for a baby animals theme in a nursery.

I found the basis for this graph while I was looking around on pinterest.  I think it was being used as a cross stitch pattern but had originated as a perler bead pattern.  I thought with a few adjustments it would be adorable as a baby blanket.

If anyone is interested in written directions along with the graph please let me know in the comments. Otherwise it may or may not happen. 🙂 My blanket measures approximately 36″ square.

I was using up some partial skeins when I made this blanket so the yarn amounts given are estimates but they should be ample for making this blanket. I used mostly Red Heart brand yarn.  I used soft yellow for the flower centers.  You could also use the same bright yellow as the chick and it would work fine.

Supplies
Worsted weight yarn:
1 oz. each of black, orange, lavender, aqua, pink, and soft yellow
5 oz. each of green, white, and bright yellow
16 oz. of blue
J/6mm hook
The graph  (To print the graph, click on the icon at the bottom of the screen to hide the right hand column.  Then click the icon next to it to fit to full page.  Then use your computers print option to print.)

If the above link doesn’t work, try this one.

To work a c2c graph, print it out and then use a ruler to draw a diagonal line across each row as you work it.  I also found it helpful to write in the numbers in each square when there were color changes.

For the border I worked one round of sc, working 3 sc into the edge of each square and an extra sc at each corner. I then worked a round of dc, working an extra dc at each corner, and then finished with a round of sc, again with an extra sc at each corner.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

- admin

Bunny Pillow

Today I’ve got a cute little bunny pillow to share with you.  How cute is this for your spring decor, or maybe in a nursery or child’s room.  I found variations of a graph for this bunny floating around on pinterest.  I decided to tweak it into a pillow and do a written pattern version.  I have provided directions for both right and left handed crocheters.

Approximately 4 oz. blue worsted weight yarn (I used Red Heart Light Blue)
Approximately 2 oz. white or pastel multi worsted weight yarn (I used a vintage yarn brand called Kolor Match in Baby Rainbow Print)
J/6mm hook
14″ x 10″ pillow form (instructions to make your own are included at the bottom)

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)

When working the color changes, I just carried my yarn along the back of my work since this will be hidden inside of the pillow.

Right handed version:
With blue, ch 47
R1) Sc in second chain from hook and each stitch across. (46 stitches) Ch 1, turn.
R2) Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn.
R3-4) Repeat row 2.
R5) Sc in first 16 stitches with blue. Sc in next 4 with white. Sc in next 5 with blue. Sc in next 5 with white. Sc in last 16 with blue. Ch 1, turn.
R6) Sc 14 with blue, 6 white, 1 blue, 3 white, 1 blue, 4 white, 1 blue, 4 white, 12 blue. Ch 1, turn.
R7) Sc 12 blue, 11 white, 1 blue, 8 white, 1 blue, 3 white, 10 blue, ch 1, turn.
R8) Sc 9 blue, 3 white, 1 blue, 10 white, 1 blue, 6 white, 1 blue, 2 white, 13 blue, ch 1, turn.
R9) Sc 14 blue, 3 white, 1 blue, 3 white, 1 blue, 12 white, 1 blue, 2 white, 9 blue, ch 1, turn.
R10) Sc 9 blue, 2 white, 1 blue, 12 white, 1 blue, 4 white, 1 blue, 2 white, 14 blue, ch 1, turn.
R11) Sc 13 blue, 9 white, 1 blue, 10 white, 1 blue, 2 white, 10 blue, ch 1, turn.
R12) Sc 12 blue, 11 white, 1 blue, 10 white, 12 blue, ch 1, turn.
R13) Sc 12 blue, 11 white, 2 blue, 9 white, 12 blue, ch 1, turn.
R14) Sc 13 blue, 21 white, 12 blue, ch 1, turn.
R15) Sc 12 blue, 20 white, 14 blue, ch 1, turn.
R16) Sc 14 blue, 14 white, 3 blue, 3 white, 12 blue, ch 1, turn.
R17) Sc 13 blue, 6 white, 1 blue, 11 white, 15 blue, ch 1, turn.
R18) Sc 17 blue, 8 white, 1 blue, 8 white, 12 blue, ch 1, turn.
R19) Sc 11 blue, 16 white, 19 blue, ch 1, turn.
R20) Sc 24 blue, 12 white, 10 blue, ch 1, turn.
R21) Sc 9 blue, 14 white, 23 blue, ch 1, turn.
R22) Sc 18 blue, 5 white, 1 blue, 13 white, 9 blue, ch 1, turn.
R23) Sc 9 blue, 5 white, 2 blue, 14 white, 16 blue, ch 1, turn.
R24) Sc 15 blue, 10 white, 1 blue, 4 white, 2 blue, 4 white, 10 blue, ch 1, turn.
R25) Sc 10 blue, 11 white, 7 blue, 3 white, 15 blue, ch 1, turn.
R26) Sc 14 blue, 3 white, 7 blue, 11 white, 11 blue, ch 1, turn.
R27) Sc 12 blue, 8 white, 1 blue, 3 white, 5 blue, 3 white, 14 blue, ch 1, turn.
R28) Sc 15 blue, 9 white, 1 blue, 7 white, 14 blue, ch 1, turn.
R29) Sc 18 blue, 4 white, 1 blue, 7 white, 16 blue, ch 1, turn.
R30) Sc 16 blue, 2 white, 5 blue, 4 white, 19 blue, ch 1, turn.
R31) Sc 20 blue, 10 white, 16 blue, ch 1, turn.
R32) Sc 16 blue, 9 white, 21 blue, ch 1, turn.
R33) Sc 22 blue, 7 white, 17 blue, ch 1, turn.
R34-37) With blue, repeat row 2.
Finish off.

Left handed version:
With blue, ch 47
R1) Sc in second chain from hook and each stitch across. (46 stitches) Ch 1, turn.
R2) Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn.
R3-4) Repeat row 2.
R5) Sc in first 16 stitches with blue. Sc in next 5 with white. Sc in next 5 with blue. Sc in next 4 with white. Sc in last 16 with blue. Ch 1, turn.
R6) Sc 12 with blue, 4 white, 1 blue, 4 white, 1 blue, 3 white, 1 blue, 6 white, 14 blue. Ch 1, turn.
R7) Sc 10 blue, 3 white, 1 blue, 8 white, 1 blue, 11 white, 12 blue, ch 1, turn.
R8) Sc 13 blue, 2 white, 1 blue, 6 white, 1 blue, 10 white, 1 blue, 3 white, 9 blue, ch 1, turn.
R9) Sc 9 blue, 2 white, 1 blue, 12 white, 1 blue, 3 white, 1 blue, 3 white, 14 blue, ch 1, turn.
R10) Sc 14 blue, 2 white, 1 blue, 4 white, 1 blue, 12 white, 1 blue, 2 white, 9 blue, ch 1, turn.
R11) Sc 10 blue, 2 white, 1 blue, 10 white, 1 blue, 9 white, 13 blue, ch 1, turn.
R12) Sc 12 blue, 10 white, 1 blue, 11 white, 12 blue, ch 1, turn.
R13) Sc 12 blue, 9 white, 2 blue, 11 white, 12 blue, ch 1, turn.
R14) Sc 12 blue, 21 white, 13 blue, ch 1, turn.
R15) Sc 14 blue, 20 white, 12 blue, ch 1, turn.
R16) Sc 12 blue, 3 white, 3 blue, 14 white, 14 blue, ch 1, turn.
R17) Sc 15 blue, 11 white, 1 blue, 6 white, 13 blue, ch 1, turn.
R18) Sc 12 blue, 8 white, 1 blue, 8 white, 17 blue, ch 1, turn.
R19) Sc 19 blue, 16 white, 11 blue, ch 1, turn.
R20) Sc 10 blue, 12 white, 24 blue, ch 1, turn.
R21) Sc 23 blue, 14 white, 9 blue, ch 1, turn.
R22) Sc 10 blue, 13 white, 1 blue, 5 white, 18 blue, ch 1, turn.
R23) Sc 16 blue, 14 white, 2 blue, 5 white, 9 blue, ch 1, turn.
R24) Sc 10 blue, 4 white, 2 blue, 4 white, 1 blue, 10 white, 15 blue, ch 1, turn.
R25) Sc 15 blue, 3 white, 7 blue, 11 white, 10 blue, ch 1, turn.
R26) Sc 11 blue, 11 white, 7 blue, 3 white, 14 blue, ch 1, turn.
R27) Sc 14 blue, 3 white, 5 blue, 3 white, 1 blue, 8 white, 12 blue, ch 1, turn.
R28) Sc 14 blue, 7 white, 1 blue, 9 white, 15 blue, ch 1, turn.
R29) Sc 16 blue, 7 white, 1 blue, 4 white, 18 blue, ch 1, turn.
R30) Sc 19 blue, 4 white, 5 blue, 2 white, 16 blue, ch 1, turn.
R31) Sc 16 blue, 10 white, 20 blue, ch 1, turn.
R32) Sc 21 blue, 9 white, 16 blue, ch 1, turn.
R33) Sc 17 blue, 7 white, 22 blue, ch 1, turn.
R34-37) With blue, repeat row 2.
Finish off.

Back of pillow.
With blue, ch 47
R1) Sc in second ch and each ch across. (46 stitches) Ch 1, turn.
R2) Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn.
R3-37) Repeat row 2. Do not finish off.

Weave in any ends necessary, then place front and back right sides together and sc around 3 sides, stitching through both layers. Insert pillow form and sc fourth side closed. Sl st to beginning sc, finish off. Weave in end.

Making a Custom Pillow Form

You will need;
fabric
poly stuffing

Cut 2 rectangles from your fabric that measure one inch longer and one inch wider than you want your finished size to be. In this case, the pillow is 14″ x 10″, so you will cut your fabric to 15″ x 11″.


I chose blue for my fabric since my pillow cover is blue but you can use white or whatever you choose.
Place pieces right side together, and mark where you want to leave an opening (for stuffing) with two pins.


Sew the pieces together with 1/2″ seams, back stitching at the opening.
Trim all 4 corners.

Turn right side out, and stuff to desired fullness.
Hand sew the opening closed. I just used a whip stitch since this will be hidden under the pillow cover.


And that is it! You now have a custom made pillow form!

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

- admin

Cross Motif Bible Cover

I was racking my brain for fun new projects to crochet when I thought about a Bible cover.  I mean, we all love our hats and scarves and blankets, but how many do we really need?  And since Easter is just around the corner, what better time than now to dress up your Bible with a brand new cover?  A draped cross seems like the perfect motif.

I have provided a chart which is only the front part of the Bible cover since the rest is plain.  There are 25 stitches (in each row) in black that are not shown to the left of the graph. Don’t worry, it’s all written out down there.

Front of coverBack of cover.

 

https://files.acrobat.com/a/preview/e373acde-12f5-4c2d-ab2f-15cd40252001

To print the graph, click on the icon at the bottom of the screen to hide the right hand column.  Then click the icon next to it to fit to full page.  Then use your computers print option to print.

Update:  I’m not sure if the above link will work.  If it doesn’t, try this one.

With the pattern as written, it is possible to customize it to fit a variety of Bibles.  However, my Bible is very thick with a 1 3/4″ spline.  If you need the piece to be a bit shorter across, eliminate some of the stitches (in black) from the left side of the pattern-this is the side of the piece not shown in the graph.  For example, you may need to eliminate 5 stitches.  This would make your count on Row 3, right handed version read as follows- Sc with black in first 8, switch to white, sc in next 4, switch to black, sc in last 28. Ch 1, turn.

You will need
Worsted weight yarn- black, approx. 3 oz. (this should be plenty), small amount of white, smaller amount of purple
J/6mm hook
Black felt
Needle and thread (or a sewing machine)

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)

 

Right handed version:
With black, ch 46
R1) Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across. Ch 1, turn. (45 stitches)
R2) Sc in each stitch across. Ch 1, turn.
R3) Sc with black in first 8, switch to white, sc in next 4, switch to black, sc in last 33. Ch 1, turn.
R4) Sc with black in first 33, with white, sc in next 4, with black, sc in last 8. Ch 1, turn.
R5) Repeat row 3.
R6) Repeat row 4.
R7) Repeat row 3.
R8) Repeat row 4.
R9) Repeat row 3.
R10) Repeat row 4.
R11) Repeat row 3.
R12) Repeat row 4.
R13) Repeat row 3.
R14) Repeat row 4.
R15) Sc with black in first 1, with purple, sc in next st, with black, sc in next 6, with white, sc in next st, with purple, sc in next 2 stitches, with white, sc in next stitch, with black, sc in next 6 stitches, with purple, sc in next stitch, with black, sc in last 26 st, ch 1, turn.
R16) Sc with black in first 26, with purple in next 2, with black in next 5, with purple in next 4, with black in next 5, with purple in next 2, with black in last stitch. Ch 1, turn.
R17) Sc with black in first st, with purple in next 3, with black in next 3, with purple in next 6, with black in next 3, with purple in next 3, with black in last 26. Ch 1, turn.
R18) Sc with black in first 26 stitches, with white in next 5, with purple in next 8, with white in next 5, with black in last st, ch 1, turn.
R19) Sc with black in first st, with white in next 4, with purple in next 10, with white in next 4, with black in last 26, ch 1, turn.
R20) Sc with black in first 26 stitches, with white in next 3, with purple in next 3, with white in next 6, with purple in next 3, with white in next 3, with black in last st, ch 1, turn.
R21) Sc with black in first st, with white in next 2, with purple in next 3, with white in next 8, with purple in next 3, with white in next 2, with black in last 26, ch 1, turn.
R22) Repeat row 4.
R23) Repeat row 3.
R24) Repeat row 4.
R25) Repeat row 3.
R26) Repeat row 4.
R27) Repeat row 3.
R28) Repeat row 4.
R29) Repeat row 2.
R30) Repeat row 2.
Do not finish off, continue to border round.

Left handed version:
With black, ch 46
R1) Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across. Ch 1, turn. (45 stitches)
R2) Sc in each stitch across. Ch 1, turn.
R3) Sc with black in first 33, switch to white, sc in next 4, switch to black, sc in last 8. Ch 1, turn.
R4) Sc with black in first 8, with white, sc in next 4, with black, sc in last 33. Ch 1, turn.
R5) Repeat row 3.
R6) Repeat row 4.
R7) Repeat row 3.
R8) Repeat row 4.
R9) Repeat row 3.
R10) Repeat row 4.
R11) Repeat row 3.
R12) Repeat row 4.
R13) Repeat row 3.
R14) Repeat row 4.
R15) Sc with black in first 26, with purple, sc in next st, with black, sc in next 6, with white, sc in next st, with purple, sc in next 2 stitches, with white, sc in next stitch, with black, sc in next 6 stitches, with purple, sc in next stitch, with black, sc in last st, ch 1, turn.
R16) Sc in first stitch with black, with purple in next 2, with black in next 5, with purple in next 4, with black in next 5, with purple in next 2, with black in last 26. Ch 1, turn.
R17) Sc with black in first 26, with purple in next 3, with black in next 3, with purple in next 6, with black in next 3, with purple in next 3, with black in last stitch. Ch 1, turn.
R18) Sc with black in first stitch, with white in next 5, with purple in next 8, with white in next 5, with black in last 26, ch 1, turn.
R19) Sc with black in first 26, with white in next 4, with purple in next 10, with white in next 4, with black in last stitch, ch 1, turn.
R20) Sc with black in first stitch, with white in next 3, with purple in next 3, with white in next 6, with purple in next 3, with white in next 3, with black in last 26, ch 1, turn.
R21) Sc with black in first 26, with white in next 2, with purple in next 3, with white in next 8, with purple in next 3, with white in next 2, with black in last st, ch 1, turn.
R22) Repeat row 4.
R23) Repeat row 3.
R24) Repeat row 4.
R25) Repeat row 3.
R26) Repeat row 4.
R27) Repeat row 3.
R28) Repeat row 4.
R29) Repeat row 2.
R30) Repeat row 2.
Do not finish off, continue to border round.

Border Round
Ch 1, work sc evenly around entire piece, working 1 extra stitch at each corner.
Repeat rounds around until cover is the correct size. My Bible took two rounds.  Finish off.

Cut 1 piece of black felt 1/4″ – 1/2″  bigger than your Bible’s cover.  Measure from front edge all the way around to back edge for the width of your piece.
Cut 2 pieces of black felt that measure the length of your Bible’s cover (plus 1/4″ – 1/2″)  and about 1/2 to 2/3 the width of your Bible.

Place the crocheted cover right side down, the large felt rectangle on top, and the two small rectangles on top of that at each end. Stitch around the outside edge completely.  You could hand sew but I used a small zigzag stitch on my sewing machine.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

 

- admin

Furniture Makeovers With Chalk Paint

I’ve been busy chalk painting several pieces of furniture lately. My living room has been filled with drop cloths and the smell of paint! I thought I’d share some of what I’ve done.
The desk.  Not so pretty in its original state but nothing a little paint and new hardware couldn’t fix.  I’ve been noticing that brass is back, and I decided this desk was a good opportunity to try out this new/old trend. My dear friend Alice sells lovely replica hardware in her shop, and it made this desk look amazing! Check out her website.

I did love the old hardware that was on this desk, but it was broken and missing.  I could have ordered the same hardware through my friend, but I wanted instant gratification, plus I already had another look in mind.  Don’t worry, I salvaged what I could for a future project.

All in all, I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.  Somebody else must have been pretty happy with it too, because I sold it the day after I put it in my shop!

 

Next up is the chest of drawers.

This piece I bought specifically for the hardware.  How cool are those pulls!

Of course, then I faced the dilemma of what color to paint to go with those pulls (because, yes, it needed painting!)  It just so happened I had this  gray/green in my paint stash, and it was perfect!  Check out how well it brings out those pulls, with just one coat.

Another piece that I am really happy with.

Last but not least, the dry sink.  This one I have had for a bit, and I liked it in it’s natural wood, but there was what appeared to be water staining on the side.   There was no damage to the structure of the piece, just the cosmetics of it.

Again, paint to the rescue!  For now, this piece has found a happy home in my house.  I had been wanting a piece to put beside my front door, and this one fits perfectly.

I hope you enjoyed seeing my latest furniture adventures.  Stay tuned for some more crochet patterns coming soon!

- admin

Diamond Motif Sweater for Barbie

This pretty little sweater will get your favorite Barbie all dressed up and ready for spring.  Any #1 weight yarn can be used to create this sweater.

*This pattern assumes you have knowledge of how to do color changes and carry yarn.

Supplies
Fingering Yarn/Sock Yarn/#1 Weight Yarn
0/3.25mm Steel Hook
Hook and Eye Closure

Stitches Used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog)
Half Double Crochet (hdc)
Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc2tog)
Double Crochet (dc)
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc)
Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc)

In this pattern, the beginning chains do not count as stitches. All stitches are worked in the back loop only unless otherwise indicated.

Ch 34. Join to first ch to create loop.
R1) Ch 2, Dc in each ch around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R2) Ch 2, Work 1 fpdc, then 1 bpdc. Repeat around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R3) Ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R4) Ch 1, sc in first 16 stitches, with green, work sc in the next two stitches. Sc in last 16 stitches with white. Join to beginning stitch with sl st.
R5) Ch 1, sc 15 stitches with white, 4 stitches with green, 15 stitches with white. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R6) Ch 1, sc 14 stitches with white, 2 stitches with green, 2 stitches with white, 2 stitches with green,14 stitches with green. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R7) Ch 1, sc 13 stitches with white, 2 stitches with green, 4 stitches with white, 2 stitches with green, 13 stitches with white. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R8) Ch 1, sc 13 stitches with white, 1 stitch with green, 2 stitches with white, 1 stitch with green, 13 stitches with white. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R9) Repeat row 8.
R10) Repeat row 7.
R11) Repeat row 6.
R12) Repeat row 5.
R13) Repeat row 4.
R14) Sc in first 6 stitches, ch 8, skip 4 stitches, sc in next 14 stitches, ch 8, skip 4 stitches, sc in last 6 stitches. Do not join. Ch 2, turn.
R15)  Working in both loops, hdc in each stitch and chain around. (42 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R16) Hdc in first two stitches. Hdc2tog in next two stitches. *Hdc in next 5 stitches, hdc2tog in next two stitches.* Repeat between *’s around, ending with 3 hdc. (36 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R17)  Working in both loops, hdc in first stitch, hdc2tog in next two stitches. *Hdc in next 3 stitches, then hdc2tog in next two stitches.* Repeat between *’s around, ending with hdc in last two stitches. Ch 1, turn. (29 stitches)
R18) Sc in each stitch around. Finish off.
R18) With color green, and working in both loops, work 2 sc, 2 sctog, 4 sc, 2 sctog, 1 sc, 2 sctog, 4 sc, 2 sctog, 2 sc. Finish off.

Sleeve- sleeve is worked in both loops.
For sleeve, with white, join in 3’rd stitch of 4 stitches skipped earlier, ch 1, sc in same stitch and next stitch, sc in side of first row, hdc in side of next row, hdc in back loop of each ch (8 hdc), hdc in side of row, sc in side of next row, sc in last two stitches, join with sl st to first stitch, finish off.
Repeat for other side.
Weave in ends. Attach a hook and eye fastener at back neck opening.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

- admin

Woolly Sheep Pillow

In my day job, I am an antique dealer, and where there are antiques, there is often primitive decor.  I had the idea the other day to try and bring the primitive look to crochet.  That project is still in the works, but this one has a bit of the primitive look to it as well.

I’m not sure if I will have time to get any St. Patrick’s Day projects worked up, but this one kind of works for that.  It’s green at least!  And there is a sheep.  Sheep seem sort of Irish like, don’t they.  Yes?  No?  Either way, here it is.

The instructions as given are to make the sheep facing as shown.  If you want your sheep to face the opposite direction, work the instructions for the opposite hand (if you are right handed, work the left handed instructions and vice versa).

Supplies
6-7 oz. sage green worsted weight yarn
1 oz. white worsted weight yarn (I used a chenille style yarn for the woolly texture.)
Small amount of black worsted weight yarn
Small scrap of tan worsted weight yarn
J/6 mm hook
17″ x 14″ pillow form (mini tutorial for how to make your own custom pillow form coming soon- stay tuned!) Update- the instructions for the pillow form are here.

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Foundation Double Crochet (fdc)

Right handed version:
R1) With green, fdc 54, ch 2, turn.
R2) Dc in second stitch and each stitch across, ch 2, turn.
R3-4) Repeat row 2.
R5) Dc in second stitch and next 16 stitches. Switch to black, dc in next 4 stitches. [With green, dc in next 2 stitches, with black, dc in next 4.] Repeat [ ] two more times. With green, dc in remaining 14 stitches. Ch 2, turn.
R6) Dc in second stitch and next 12 stitches. With black, dc in next 4. [With green, dc in next two, with black, dc in next 4.] Repeat between [ ] two more times. With green, dc in remaining 18 stitches.
R7) Repeat row 5.
R8) Dc in second stitch and next 8 stitches. With white, dc in next 32 stitches. With green, dc in last 12 stitches. (At this point I found it helpful to work with two balls of green so I did not have to carry the yarn all the way across the body of the sheep.) Ch 2, turn.
R9) Dc in second stitch and next 8 stitches. With white, dc in next 36 stitches. With green, dc in last 8. Ch 2, turn.
R10) Dc in second stitch and next 6 stitches. With white, dc in next 38. With green, dc in last 8. Ch 2, turn.
R11) Dc in second stitch and next 4. With white, dc in next 42. With green, dc in last 6. Ch 2, turn.
R12-13) Repeat row 11.
R14) Dc in second stitch and next 4 stitches. With white, dc in next 12, with black, dc in next 4, with white, dc in next 26. With green, dc in last 6. Ch 2, turn.
R15) Dc in second stitch and next 6. With white, dc in next 22, with black, dc in next 8, with white, dc in next 10. With green, dc in last 6, ch 2, turn.
R16) Dc in second stitch and next 6. With white, dc in next 6, with black, dc in next 12, with white, dc in next 18. With green, dc in last 10, ch 2, turn.
R17) Dc in second stitch and next 10. With white, dc in next 16, with black, dc in next 4, with tan, dc in next 4, with black, dc in next 4, with white, dc in next 4. With green, dc in last 10, ch 2, turn.
R18) Dc in second stitch and next 12 stitches. With black, dc in next 12 stitches. With green, dc in last 28 stitches, ch 2, turn.
R19) Dc in second stitch and next 20. With black, dc in next 4, with green, dc in next 2, with black, dc in next 4, with white, dc in next 4, with black, dc in next 4, with green, dc in next 2, with black, dc in next 4. With green, dc in last 8, ch 2, turn.
R20) Dc in second stitch and next 8. With black, dc in next 4, with white, dc in next 12, with black, dc in next 4. With green, dc in last 24, ch 2, turn.
R21) Dc in second stitch and next 28. With white, dc in next 8. With green, dc in last 16, ch 2, turn.
R22-25) Repeat row 2. Finish off.

Left handed version:
R1) With green, fdc 54, ch 2, turn.
R2) Dc in second stitch and each stitch across, ch 2, turn.
R3-4) Repeat row 2.
R5) Dc in second stitch and next 12 stitches. Switch to black, dc in next 4 stitches. [With green, dc in next 2 stitches, with black, dc in next 4.] Repeat [ ] two more times. With green, dc in remaining 18 stitches. Ch 2, turn.
R6) Dc in second stitch and next 16 stitches. With black, dc in next 4. [With green, dc in next two, with black, dc in next 4.] Repeat between [ ] two more times. With green, dc in remaining 14 stitches.
R7) Repeat row 5.
R8) Dc in second stitch and next 10 stitches. With white, dc in next 32 stitches. With green, dc in last 10 stitches. (At this point I found it helpful to work with two balls of green so I did not have to carry the yarn all the way across the body of the sheep.) Ch 2, turn.
R9) Dc in second stitch and next 6 stitches. With white, dc in next 36 stitches. With green, dc in last 10. Ch 2, turn.
R10) Dc in second stitch and next 6 stitches. With white, dc in next 38. With green, dc in last 8. Ch 2, turn.
R11) Dc in second stitch and next 4. With white, dc in next 42. With green, dc in last 6. Ch 2, turn.
R12-13) Repeat row 11.
R14) Dc in second stitch and next 4 stitches. With white, dc in next 26, with black, dc in next 4, with white, dc in next 12. With green, dc in last 6. Ch 2, turn.
R15) Dc in second stitch and next 6. With white, dc in next 10, with black, dc in next 8, with white, dc in next 22. With green, dc in last 8, ch 2, turn.
R16) Dc in second stitch and next 8. With white, dc in next 18, with black, dc in next 12, with white, dc in next 6. With green, dc in last 8, ch 2, turn.
R17) Dc in second stitch and next 8. With white, dc in next 4, with black, dc in next 4, with tan, dc in next 4, with black, dc in next 4, with white, dc in next 16. With green, dc in last 12, ch 2, turn.
R18) Dc in second stitch and next 26 stitches. With black, dc in next 12 stitches. With green, dc in last 14 stitches, ch 2, turn.
R19) Dc in second stitch and next 6. With black, dc in next 4, with green, dc in next 2, with black, dc in next 4, with white, dc in next 4, with black, dc in next 4, with green, dc in next 2, with black, dc in next 4. With green, dc in last 22, ch 2, turn.
R20) Dc in second stitch and next 22. With black, dc in next 4, with white, dc in next 12, with black, dc in next 4. With green, dc in last 10, ch 2, turn.
R21) Dc in second stitch and next 14. With white, dc in next 8. With green, dc in last 30, ch 2, turn.
R22-25) Repeat row 2. Finish off.

Back of pillow- with green
R1) Fdc 54, ch 2, turn.
R2) Dc in second stitch and each stitch across, ch 2, turn.
R3-25) Repeat row 2. Do not finish off.

Weave in or knot together all ends as necessary. Place front and back wrong sides together. Continuing with yarn from back of pillow, ch 1, sc through both layers of pillow evenly around 3 sides. Insert pillow form and sc remaining side together. Slip stitch to beginning stitch. Finish off and weave in remaining end.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

- admin 4 Comments

Cake Dots Scarf

I have never published a pattern that caused as much drama as this one did. So, why did this pattern cause drama, you ask. Normally, I check over a pattern before I publish it and make sure that it is written as clearly and correctly as I know how to make it. Somehow, when I first published this pattern (on my old blog), I did so in it’s rough draft form. And even worse, I didn’t realize it immediately. It wasn’t unworkable as it was written, and some very nice folks added some helpful hints in the comments, but by the time I realized what was going on, my life had gotten incredibly busy and I just didn’t have the time to re-work and re-write. I left it up with a note on it explaining what had happened and that I was leaving it up because some people were using it and enjoying it, and I didn’t want to just make it disappear. And that is where the drama started. I then received some very ugly comments about how I shouldn’t be making excuses for not fixing it, and that maybe if I couldn’t do any better than that, I shouldn’t even be sharing patterns. Really? I mean, it was free, for crying out loud! But it all ended well when many many lovely people left me comments of kindness and support, and the ugly comments showed themselves for what they were.
So after that long and dramatic story, here is the pattern.

I am going to give you an updated version of this using a Caron Cake, and then how I worked the original scarf, and then instructions for turning it into an over-sized scarf.

Because of how the colors in the cake came out, I chose to make the Caron Cake version into an infinity scarf.

Supplies:
(1) 7.1 oz. Caron Cake, worsted weight
Hook: H/8 5.00mm

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Double Crochet Together (dctog)

Ch 34.

R1) 1 dc in 5’th ch, ch 1 and dc in same ch. [Skip 2 ch, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch.] Repeat between [ ] to end of row, skip 1 ch and and dc in last ch. Ch 3 and turn.
R2) Dc, ch 1, dc in each ch 1 space, ending row with 1 dc in turning ch. Ch 3 and turn.
R3) Repeat R2, ending with ch 1 and turn.
R4) Sc in each dc and ch 1 space. Ch 3 and turn.
R5) Skip first 3 sc, 5 dc in next sc. [Skip 4 sc, 5 dc in next sc.] Repeat between [ ] to end of row, ending with 1 dc in last sc, ch 5 and turn.
R6) Skip first dc. [Work 5 dctog in next 5 dc, ch 4.] Repeat between [ ] to last cluster, ch 2, 1 dc in turning ch, ch 1 and turn.
R7) Sc in first dc, 2 sc in ch 2. [Sc in 5 dctog, 4 sc in ch 4.] Repeat between [ ] to end of row, ending with 3 sc in turning ch. Ch 3 and turn.
R8) Dc, ch 1, dc in 3’rd sc, [skip 2 sc, dc, ch 1, dc in next sc], repeat between [ ] across, ending with skipping one sc and dc in last sc. Ch 3 and turn.
R9-10) Repeat row 8, ending row 10 with a ch 1 and turn.
To continue pattern, repeat rows 4-10. Continue repeating until yarn runs out, ending with row 7 and leaving enough yarn to work a row of slip stitch.
Slip stitch the two short ends together, finish off, and weave in ends.

 

The original scarf


(1) 7 oz. Red Heart
H/8  5.00mm hook

 

Work pattern as above, ending with row 10. Finish off, weave in ends.

 

 

The super-sized scarf


12 oz. worsted weight yarn (I used Caron One Pound)
N/9mm hook

 

Work pattern just like the instructions for the original scarf. Add fringe if desired.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

 

- admin 2 Comments

The “Crossover” Hat

With a few 70 degree days already under our belt, winter feels like it is quickly drawing to an end.  But I suspect that there are still some cold days ahead of us yet where we are all going to need a warm hat.  The Crossover Hat is so named for two reasons.  One, because it will fit both men and women, and two, because the stitches in this hat cross over.

You can see the details of the stitch better with the two colors.

I personally like a hat that is a bit roomier (I seem to have slippery hair that makes hats slide off), but if you want it to be a bit more fitted for a lady, just go down a hook size or two and you should be fine.

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Double Crochet (dc)
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc)
Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc)
Foundation Double Crochet (fdc)
Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog)

 
You will need:
Worsted Weight Yarn (I used partial skeins of yarn such as Red Heart, so perhaps 3-4 oz.)
J/6mm hook
Fur pom pom (optional)

Fdc 70, join. This should measure 21″ un-stretched, before joining.
*Tip. When joining fdc, on the last stitch, start stitch as normal, but after making the chain one, insert hook into base of beginning stitch and join with a slip stitch. Then continue working the rest of the fdc as normal, and then sl st to the top of stitch. This joins the stitches at the base and the top with a seamless look.

R1-3) Ch 2, work fpdc, then bpdc. Continue to alternate fpdc and bpdc around, ending with a bpdc. Join with sl st to beginning stitch. (Starting chain does not count as a stitch, here or after.)
R4) Ch 2, dc in each stitch around, join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R5) Repeat round 4.
R6) Ch 2, skip first stitch, dc in next. Go behind just worked dc and work a dc in the skipped stitch. Repeat around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R7) Repeat round 4.
R8) Repeat round 6.
R9) Ch 2, [dc in first 5 stitches, work 1 dc2tog in the 6’th and 7’th stitch.] Repeat between [ ] around. (60 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R10) Ch 2, [dc in first 4 stitches, work 1 dc2tog in the 5’th and 6’th stitch.] Repeat between [ ] around. (50 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R11) Ch 2, work crossed stitches as per round 6, but skip a stitch between every two sets of crossed stitches. (40 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R12) Ch 2, [dc in first 2 stitches, work 1 dc2tog in the 3’rd and 4’th stitch.] Repeat between [ ] around. (30 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R13) Ch 2, [dc in first stitch, work 1 dc2tog in the 2’nd and 3’rd stitch.] Repeat between [ ] around. (20 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R14) Ch 2, dc2tog around, join with sl st to beginning stitch.
Finish off, leaving a long tail. With a needle, stitch around, pull up tight. Pull yarn to inside and tie off. Weave in ends and add a pom pom if desired.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

- admin 4 Comments

Polish Star Pillow

 

I had intended to save this pattern until it was closer to spring, but we have had warm weather the last two days and we actually heard peep frogs this evening!  So now I have spring fever and decided to go ahead and share this.  Of course, it’s calling for snow again tomorrow but oh well.

I ran across this stitch and had to try it since it combines two things that I love doing- crocheting and weaving!  The only instructions that I could find were in Polish. Sadly, I cannot read that and Google Translate never knows how to translate crochet instructions.  (Although some of it’s attempts to do so can be pretty funny!)  There was also a picture and a graph of sorts.  I messed around with it, figured it out, and hopefully my instructions will make the whole process simple for everyone.

One thing I will mention is that I found it easier to weave the loops as I went.  It is up to you whether you want to wait and weave them all at the end or weave as you go.

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Foundation Double Crochet (fdc)

You will need:

7 oz. Worsted Weight Yarn-turquoise (color A)
7 oz. Worsted Weight Yarn- pink (color B)
or (2) 7 oz. skeins of worsted weight yarn in colors of your choice
J/6mm hook
18″ pillow form
Needle to weave in ends

I worked two rows across the same way (one row of each color), then carried my yarn up the side and worked two rows (one of each color) across the opposite way. You don’t have to work it this way, but it will save a lot of weaving in ends and the carried yarn will be hidden in the border.

Pillow Front
With Color A, Fdc 60. This should measure 17″.
R1) Ch 3, dc in second stitch and next two stitches. [Ch 10, dc in next 4 stitches.] Repeat between []’s across.
R2) Join color B. Ch 3, dc in second stitch and next stitch. [Skip next stitch, ch 10. Dc 2 in next stitch, dc in next two stitches, dc 2 in next stitch. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next two stitches.] Repeat between []’s. Dc in last stitch.
R3) With color A, ch 3, dc in second stitch, dc 2 in next stitch. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next 4 stitches, skip next stitch. [Ch 10, dc 2 in next two stitches. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next 4 stitches, skip next stitch.] Repeat between []’s across. Ch 10, dc 2 in next stitch, dc in each of last two stitches.
R4) Color B, ch 3, dc in second stitch, dc in next stitch, dc 2 in next stitch. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next 2 stitches, skip next stitch. [Ch 10. Dc 2 in next stitch, dc in next 2 stitches, dc 2 in next stitch. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next 2 stitches, skip next stitch.] Repeat between []’s across. Ch 10, dc 2 in next stitch, dc in each of last 3.
R5) Color A, ch 3, dc in second stitch and next two stitches. [Skip next stitch, ch 10. Dc 2 in next 2 stitches. Ch 10, skip next stitch, dc in next 4 stitches.] Repeat between []’s across.
R6-9) Repeat rows 2-5.
R10-13) Repeat rows 2-5.
R14-17) Repeat rows 2-5.
R18-21) Repeat rows 2-5.
R22-25) Repeat rows 2-5.
R26-27) Repeat rows 2-3.
R28) Color B, ch 3, dc in second dc and each dc across. (60 stitches) Finish off. Weave all loops together before completing row 29, including loops from row 27.
R29) Color A, Ch 3, Dc in second stitch and next stitch. When working dc in next stitch, pass needle through top of loop from row 27, then complete dc as normal. Dc in each stitch across, catching corresponding loop from row 27 in every fourth stitch.
Border) Ch 3, turn. Dc in second stitch and each stitch across. Work 2 dc at corner, then dc 2 into every stitch down the side. Work 2 dc in corner, then dc in each stitch across. Work 2 dc at corner, then dc 2 into every stitch up other side. Work 2 dc in corner, join with sl st to beginning ch. Finish off.

Weaving the loops together
*This graph should explain why I have never been, am not now, nor will I ever claim to be, an artist, lol. There are some amazing artists in my family but I am NOT one of them!
Hopefully though, even though it lacks in artistic value, it will still help to make sense of the weaving process. Black ink represents the turquoise and red ink represents the pink. I did not show the fdc row on this graph.

And since I couldn’t figure out any way to get a full graph of the pillow to fit one photo and still be clear we are going to work off of a smaller graph.  The principle will still be the same, you will just have more repeats across than what we will be showing.

Ok, let’s start weaving.   When working a row, you will be working the loops of that row and the loops of the previous row.

 

R1)  Skip loop A.  Pull loop C through loop B.  Pull loop E through loop D.  Skip loop F.

R2)  Give loop A  a twist, then pull loop G through loop A.  Pull loop H through loop C.  Pull loop I through loop B.  Pull loop J through loop E.  Pull loop K through loop D.  Pull loop L through loop F.

Picture shows the twist.

R3)  Pull loop A through loop G.  Pull loop B through loop H.  Pull loop C through loop I.  Pull loop D through loop J. Pull loop E through loop K.  Pull loop F through loop L.  Still working on row 3, go back and pull loop B through loop A.  Pull loop D through loop C.  Pull loop F through loop E.

R4)  Pull loop G through loop B.  Pull loop H through loop A.  Pull loop I through loop D.  Pull loop J through loop C.  Pull loop K through loop F.  Pull loop L through loop E.

 

R5)  Pull loop A through loop G.  Pull loop B through H.  Pull loop C through loop I.  Pull loop D through loop J.  Pull loop E through loop K.  Pull loop F through loop L.   Still working on row 5, go back and pull loops through each other as directed in row 1.

The pattern will now repeat itself, although it will not be necessary to continue to twist the beginning and ending loops on row 2. (The twist just helped to hold the stitching together on the first row since those loops did not loop into anything else.)

Pillow back

R1) With color A, ch 3, work 15 dc into first ch made. Sl st to top of beginning chain.
R2) Ch 2. In same stitch work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. [Dc in next 3 stitches. In next stitch work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat [] 2 more times. Dc in last 3 stitches, join with sl st to beginning ch.
R3) Ch 2, dc in next stitch. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 7 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, dc in last 5 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning ch.
R4) Ch 2, dc in next 3 stitches. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 11 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 7 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain. Finish off.
R5) Join Color B in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 15 stitches. In ch 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 15 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R6) Ch 2, dc in next space. [In chain 1 corner, work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 19 stitches.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 17 stitches, sl st to beginning ch. Finish off.
R7) Join Color A in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 23 stitches. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 23 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R8) Ch 2, dc in next stitch. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 27 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, dc in last 25 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning ch.
R9) Ch 2, dc in next 3 stitches. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 31 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 27 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R10) Ch 2, dc in next 5 stitches. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 35 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 29 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain. Finish off.
R11) Join Color B in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 39 stitches. In ch 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 39 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R12) Ch 2, dc in next space. [In chain 1 corner, work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 43 stitches.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 41 stitches, sl st to beginning ch. Finish off.
R13) Join Color A in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 47 stitches. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 47 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R14) Ch 2, dc in next stitch. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 51 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, dc in last 49 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning ch.
R15) Ch 2, dc in next 3 stitches. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 55 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 51 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain. Finish off.
R16) Join Color B in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 59 stitches. In ch 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 59 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain. Do not finish off.

Weave in all remaining ends on pillow back and front. Place pillow top and bottom together, wrong side facing each other. (Right side out.) Ch 1, then sc evenly around with color B, working through the stitches on both the pillow back and front. Once you have worked around 3 sides, insert the pillow form and stitch together the last side. Ch 1, turn. Sc in first stitch. [Skip next stitch, 5 dc in next stitch. Skip next stitch, sc in next stitch.] Repeat around, ending with 5 dc and a skippped stitch, then join with a sl st to beginning sc. Finish off and weave in remaining end. Your pillow is done!

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.