- admin

Aloha Tote


Wow has this summer been busy! I’ve had this tote finished, photographed, and ready to share for quite some time. I just didn’t have the time or the energy to do the final polishing and editing that needs to be done before releasing a pattern. So here I am at 12:30 at night, typing away so that I can finally get this new pattern out to you.

Is this not the perfect summer tote? The cheery red, the aloha flower, the convenience of a bag that everything can be tossed into and go. It’s perfect! While I made the sample in red, I also envision this in other bright colors, bright pink, bright blue, etc.

Supplies
7 oz. worsted weight red yarn
1 oz. worsted weight white yarn
H/8 5mm hook
Handle (I used (2) 24′ pieces of white webbing
Optional lining material

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)

The base:
With red, ch 36
R1) Sc 3 in second ch from hook, sc in next 33 chains. Sc 6 in last ch. Turn and working up the back side of the chain, skip the ch with the 6 sc in it, sc in the next 33 chains, sc 3 in the last ch. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1. (78 sc)
R2) Sc 2 in each of the first 3 stitches, sc in the next 33 stitches. Sc 2 in each of the next 6 stitches. Sc in the next 33 stitches, sc 2 in each of the last 3 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1. (90 sc)
R3) [Sc 2 in the first stitch, sc in the next stitch.] Repeat [] twice. Sc in the next 34 stitches. Repeat [] 2 times. Sc 2 in the next stitch. Repeat [] 3 times. Sc in the next 34 stitches. Repeat [] 2 times. Sc 2 in the last stitch. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1. (102 sc)
R4) [Sc 2 in the first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches.] Repeat [] once. Sc 2 in the next stitch. Sc in the next 37 stitches. Repeat [] twice. Sc 2 in the next stitch. Repeat [] twice. Sc 2 in the next stitch. Sc in the next 37 stitches. Repeat [] twice. Sc 2 in the last stitch. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1. (114 sc)
R5) [Sc 2 in the first stitch. Sc in next 3 stitches.] Repeat [] once. Sc 2 in the next stitch. Sc in the next 39 stitches. Repeat [] twice. Sc 2 in the next stitch. Repeat [] twice. Sc 2 in the next stitch. Sc in the next 39 stitches. Repeat [] twice. Sc 2 in the last stitch. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1. (126 sc)

Working up the sides of the tote:
*All stitches from this point on are worked in the back loop only.*
R6) Sc in each stitch around, join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1.
R7-30) Repeat round 6.

All stitches will continue to be sc worked in the back loop only, but only the color counts and changes will be given for rounds 31-46. Keep working with the red yarn, but start carrying the white yarn at the beginning of round 31.

Right handed version
R31) [13 red, 3 white, 5 red] Repeat [] around.
R32) [5 red, 3 white, 4 red, 5 white, 4 red] Repeat [] around.
R33) [4 red, 5 white, 2 red, 6 white, 4 red] Repeat [] around.
R34) [4 red, 2 white, 2 red, 2 white, 1 red, 2 white, 1 red, 3 white, 4 red] Repeat [] around.
R35) [4 red, 3 white, 2 red, 1 white, 1 red, 1 white, 2 red, 2 white, 5 red] Repeat [] around.
R36) [5 red, 3 white, 5 red, 2 white, 6 red] Repeat [] around.
R37) [7 red, 2 white, 12 red] Repeat [] around.
R38) [4 red, 2 white, 4 red, 2 white, 2 red, 3 white, 4 red] Repeat [] around.
R39) [3 red, 2 white, 2 red, 1 white, 2 red, 1 white, 4 red, 3 white, 3 red] Repeat [] around.
R40) [2 red, 3 white, 1 red, 2 white, 2 red, 1 white, 2 red, 1 white, 2 red, 3 white, 2 red] Repeat [] around.
R41) [2 red, 5 white, 2 red, 1 white, 3 red, 6 white, 2 red] Repeat [] around.
R42) [2 red, 4 white, 2 red, 1 white, 2 red, 2 white, 1 red, 5 white, 2 red] Repeat [] around.
R43) [3 red, 2 white, 2 red, 1 white, 1 red, 1 white, 2 red, 1 white, 2 red, 3 white, 3 red] Repeat [] around.
R44) [6 red, 1 white, 2 red, 2 white, 1 red, 2 white, 7 red] Repeat [] around.
R45) [5 red, 1 white, 3 red, 5 white, 7 red] Repeat [] around.
R46) [5 red, 1 white, 4 red, 3 white, 8 red] Repeat [] around.

Left handed version
R31) [5 red, 3 white, 13 red] Repeat [] around.
R32) [4 red, 5 white, 4 red, 3 white, 5 red] Repeat [] around.
R33) [4 red, 6 white, 2 red, 5 white, 4 red] Repeat [] around.
R34) [4 red, 3 white, 1 red, 2 white, 1 red, 2 white, 2 red, 2 white, 4 red] Repeat [] around.
R35) [5 red, 2 white, 2 red, 1 white, 1 red, 1 white, 2 red, 3 white, 4 red] Repeat [] around.
R36) [6 red, 2 white, 5 red, 3 white, 5 red] Repeat [] around.
R37) [12 red, 2 white, 7 red] Repeat [] around.
R38) [4 red, 3 white, 2 red, 2 white, 4 red, 2 white, 4 red] Repeat [] around.
R39) [3 red, 3 white, 4 red, 1 white, 2 red, 1 white, 2 red, 2 white, 3 red] Repeat [] around.
R40) [2 red, 3 white, 2 red, 1 white, 2 red, 1 white, 2 red, 2 white, 1 red, 3 white, 2 red] Repeat [] around.
R41) [2 red, 6 white, 3 red, 1 white, 2 red, 5 white, 2 red] Repeat [] around.
R42) [2 red, 5 white, 1 red, 2 white, 2 red, 1 white, 2 red, 4 white, 2 red] Repeat [] around.
R43) [3 red, 3 white, 2 red, 1 white, 2 red, 1 white, 1 red, 1 white, 2 red, 2 white, 3 red] Repeat [] around.
R44) [7 red, 2 white, 1 red, 2 white, 2 red, 1 white, 6 red] Repeat [] around.
R45) [7 red, 5 white, 3 red, 1 white, 5 red] Repeat [] around.
R46) [8 red, 3 white, 4 red, 1 white, 5 red] Repeat [] around.

At this point you can drop the white yarn.
R47-49) Repeat round 6.
Finish off. Attach handles and line tote as desired.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

- admin

Pink & Purple Scarf

 

I have one more scarf pattern for you before I switch to some other things.  With the soft pink and purple, this is a great scarf for those spring days that are a bit cooler.

I was looking for a way to mix the two colors together that wasn’t another stripe pattern, and I really like how this stitch turned out.

I made a scarf that measured 9″ wide by 60″ long. If you want a longer scarf, you should have plenty of yarn to do so.

Supplies
1 skein Caron Simply Soft in Pink
1 skein Caron Simply Soft in Purple
H/8 5mm Hook

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)

At the end of my rows, I pulled the skein of yarn through the last loop and finished off, but did not cut yarn.

With pink, ch 42
R1) Sc in second ch from hook. [Ch 1, skip 3 chains. In next ch work 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 1dc (you just made a shell). Ch 1, skip next 3 stitches, sc in next stitch.] Repeat [] across.
R2) Do not turn but go back to the beginning of row 1, join purple with a slip stitch, ch 1, sc in first stitch. [Ch 7, sc in next sc.] Repeat [] across.
R3) Turn, join pink with a slip stitch, ch 4, dc in first stitch. [Ch 1. Working around row two, work a sc into the middle dc of the shell created in row 1, ch 1. In next sc, work 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc.] Repeat [] across, ending with a dc, ch 1, dc worked into the last stitch.
R4) Do not turn, but go back to the beginning of the row and pick up purple, join with a sl st ch 1, and sc into first stitch. Ch 3, sc into first sc. [Ch 7, sc in next sc.] Repeat [] across, ending with a ch 3 and sc in the last stitch.
R5) Turn, join pink with a sl st, ch 1, and sc into first stitch. [Ch 1, work 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc into first sc. Ch 1, and working around row 4, sc into the middle dc of the shell made in row 3.] Repeat [] across, working a sc into the last sc.
Continue repeating rows 2-5 until desired length is reached, ending with a row 5 repeat.
Last row) With pink, ch 1, sc into first sc. [Ch 3, sc into middle dc of shell. Ch 3, sc into next sc.] Repeat [] across, finish off with pink.
With purple, sc evenly down one side of the scarf, working 1 sc for each sc at the end of a row, and 2 sc for each dc at the end of the row. Repeat for the other side. Finish off and weave in all ends.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

- admin

White Lace Scarf

Wow, can you believe another winter has came and almost went?  Scarf wearing days are quickly coming to an end, but, before they do, I have a couple more to share with you.

Wouldn’t this scarf look great paired with a jean jacket?  Of course, there are so many ways you could wear it!

My scarf measures 9″ wide by 72″ long.

Supplies
(2) skeins Mary Maxim Starlette Worsted Weight in White (3 1/2 oz./180 yds) or comparable worsted weight yarn.
J/10 6mm Hook

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Double Crochet (dc)

Ch 36.
R1) Work 2 dc into the fourth ch from the hook. Skip 2 chains, dc in the next ch. Ch 1, skip 1, dc in the next ch. [Ch 1, skip 3, work(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) all in the next ch. Skip 2 chains, dc in the next ch. Ch 1, skip 1, dc in the next ch.] Repeat [] across. Ch 3, turn.
R2) Dc in the first ch 1, ch 1. [Skip 3 dc, work(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next ch 1. Dc in the next ch, ch 1 and skip the next dc. Dc in the next ch, ch 1.] Repeat [] across, ending with 3 dc worked into the top of the turning ch of row 1. Ch 3, turn.
R3) Dc 2 in the first stitch. [Skip next 2 stitches, dc in ch 1. Ch 1, skip next dc, dc in ch 1. Ch 1, skip next 3 dc, work(2dc, ch 1, 2 dc) all in the next ch 1.] Repeat [] across. Skip next 2 dc, dc in ch 1. Ch 1, skip next dc, dc in top of turning ch from previous row. Ch 3, turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until desired length is reached. Finish off, weave in ends.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

- admin

New Poshmark Closet

Hi everyone, I have more crochet projects in the works!  In the meantime, how about a little clothes shopping?  Check out my new Poshmark closet. I have an assortment of sizes and styles, hopefully something for everyone!

Happy shopping and we will be back to crocheting soon!

- admin

Argyle Purse

Remember that leather base tutorial I posted?  You were probably starting to wonder where I was going with that.  It was beginning to feel like I was never going to get this purse done.  I had it almost done for the longest time and I was waiting for one tiny piece to come in the mail so I could finish it.  Finally!

On a side note, I have no idea why these pictures are so blurry.  They were clear when I took them, and clear when I shared them elsewhere but on here?  Blurry!  If anyone has any idea why please share!

While I did create a tutorial for creating the base, I did not do the same for how to line the purse.  There are so many great tutorials out there that I decided not to do another one at this point.  To finish my bag I used a salvaged purse strap, some black fabric, stiff iron on interfacing, and a magnetic snap.

Supplies
Prepared faux leather base- get the tutorial here
2 oz Black Yarn, worsted weight
1.5 oz Red Yarn, worsted weight
1 oz White Yarn, worsted weight
H/8 5mm hook
Lining fabric, interfacing, handle, magnetic snap

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)

R1) Join yarn with a sl st starting at the corner on the short side of purse and working immediately around to the long side of the purse. Ch 1, single crochet into the same stitch. Single crochet into each stitch around, using both loops of the stitch. Join with a sl st to beginning stitch, ch 1. (128 sc)

From this point on, all stitches will be sc worked into the back loop only. At the end of each row, you will join to the first stitch of the row with a sl st and ch 1. The pattern from this point on will only give you the color counts and changes. Although you will not be working with the white yarn until round 3, go ahead and pick up both the red and the white yarn now.

R2) [1 red, 15 black.] Repeat [] around.
R3) [1 black, 1 red, 6 black, 1 red, 6 black, 1 red, 1 black, 1 red, 6 black, 1 white, 6 black, 1 red] Repeat [] around.
R4) [2 black, 1 red, 4 black, 3 red, 4 black, 1 red, 3 black, 1 red, 4 black, 3 white, 4 black, 1 red, 1 black] Repeat [] around.
R5) [3 black, 1 red,2 black, 5 red, 2 black, 1 red, 5 black, 1 red, 2 black, 5 white, 2 black, 1 red, 2 black] Repeat [] around.
R6) [4 black, 9 red, 7 black, 1 red, 7 white, 1 red, 3 black] Repeat [] around.
R7) [4 black, 9 red, 7 black, 1 white, 1 red, 5 white, 1 red, 1 white, 3 black] Repeat [] around.
R8) [3 black, 11 red, 5 black, 3 white, 1 red, 3 white, 1 red, 3 white, 2 black] Repeat [] around.
R9) [2 black, 13 red, 3 black, 5 white, 1 red, 1 white, 1 red, 5 white, 1 black] Repeat [] around.
R10) [1 black, 15 red, 1 black, 7 white, 1 red, 7 white] Repeat [] around.
R11) [2 black, 13 red, 3 black, 5 white, 1 red, 1 white, 1 red, 5 white, 1 black] Repeat [] around.
R12) [3 black, 11 red, 5 black, 3 white, 1 red, 3 white, 1 red, 3 white, 2 black] Repeat [] around.
R13) [4 black, 9 red, 7 black, 1 white, 1 red, 5 white, 1 red, 1 white, 3 black] Repeat [] around.
R14) [4 black, 9 red, 7 black, 1 red, 7 white, 1 red, 3 black] Repeat [] around.
R15) [3 black, 1 red,2 black, 5 red, 2 black, 1 red, 5 black, 1 red, 2 black, 5 white, 2 black, 1 red, 2 black] Repeat [] around.
R16) [2 black, 1 red, 4 black, 3 red, 4 black, 1 red, 3 black, 1 red, 4 black, 3 white, 4 black, 1 red, 1 black] Repeat [] around.
R17) [1 black, 1 red, 6 black, 1 red, 6 black, 1 red, 1 black, 1 red, 6 black, 1 white, 6 black, 1 red] Repeat [] around.
R18) [1 red, 15 black.] Repeat [] around. You can now stop carrying the red and white yarn.
R19) 128 black.
R20) 128 black.
Finish off.

Attaching the handle
I used a handle salvaged from an old purse. If you use a similar style handle, this is how to attach it.
At the joining seam, start working in two stitches before the join. Join yarn with a slip stitch, ch 1, sc in the same stitch and the next 3 stitches. (You will be working into two stitches before the join, and two stitches after the join.)
Ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch across. Repeat for a total of 6 rows. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail, and finish off. Pull the tab that you just made through the metal loop of the handle, fold to the inside, and stitch securely. Tie off yarn.
Now count 60 stitches around to the other side of the purse, join yarn in the next stitch, and repeat the process. There should be 60 stitches between each handle tab.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

- admin

Glam Sweater Pouch

Remember the Glam Sweater Purse I made? Well, I made it a little buddy. I like having a pouch in my purse to corral all those little things that can otherwise just create clutter. Things like mints, chapstick, hand gel, extra contacts, etc. Keeping them in a pouch keeps my purse a little more organized and also makes those things easier to find.

When I bought the yarn for the Glam Sweater Purse, I didn’t yet know what I was going to do with it. The store was having a buy 2, get one free sale so of course I bought three. I only needed two of the skeins for the purse, and decided to make this little dude with the extra skein.

I added a zipper and lining to mine. I’m not adding instructions for that, but this tutorial is almost exactly the same way I did it.

My finished pouch measures approximately 8″ across and 5″ tall.

Supplies
(1) skein Lion Brand Wool-Ease Quick & Thick in Starlight
N/9mm hook
Zipper
Fabric

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)

Ch 19
R1) Sc 2 in second ch from hook. Sc in the next 16 chains. Sc 2 in the last ch. Turn, and working up the back side of the chain, sc in each ch. Join with sl st to beginning st. Ch 1. (38 sc)
R2) Sc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to beginning st. Ch 1.
R3-12) Repeat round 2.
R13) Sl st in back loop only of each stitch around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch and finish off.

Line and add zipper as desired.

- admin

Hearts and Darts Hat

 

It’s getting to be that time of year again when all things heart and pink and chocolate are plentiful. In the spirit of the season, I bring you the Hearts and Darts Hat. Although I had Valentine’s Day on the brain when I created it, I think it is cute enough to wear any time.

The yarns that I used for this hat are discontinued but do seem to still be available at a number of online stores. Of course you can always substitute something else if you so desire, I just like to let you know when I use a specific brand.

This hat is sized for an adult woman.  If you need to adjust the size of the hat a bit, changing the stitch count will not work with this hat as the pattern is a repeat of 16 stitches.  You will need to change your hook size.

Supplies
(1) Queensland Leche’ in White (50g/109 yds) or 1.5 oz of a similar worsted weight yarn
(1) Plymouth Yarn Suri Merino in Pink (50g/110 yds) or 1.5 oz of a similar worsted weight yarn
H/8 5mm hook
Optional pom pom
Large Needle

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Back Loop Single Crochet (blsc)

Hat Brim
With white yarn, ch 6.
R1) Sc in second ch from hook and each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
R2) Blsc in each stitch across. Ch 1, turn.
R3-80) Repeat row 2.
Bring the two short ends together, making sure to not twist, and join with a sl st.

Hat Body
Join pink yarn and ch 1, but do not cut white yarn.
R1. Sc in the end of each row evenly around, carrying the white yarn and working over it, for a total of 80 sc. Join with sl st to beginning sc. Ch 1.

All remaining stitches will be sc worked in the back loop only. Only the color count and changes will be given from this point on. All rounds end with a sl st to join and ch 1.

R2) [2 pink, 1 white, 3 pink, 1 white, 3 pink, 2 white, 1 pink, 2 white, 1 pink] Repeat [] around.
R3) [2 pink, 2 white, 1 pink, 2 white, 2 pink, 7 white] Repeat [] around.
R4) [2 pink, 5 white, 2 pink, 7 white] Repeat [] around.
R5) [3 pink, 3 white, 4 pink, 5 white, 1 pink] Repeat [] around.
R6) [4 pink, 1 white, 6 pink, 3 white, 2 pink] Repeat [] around.
R7) [4 pink, 1 white, 7 pink, 1 white, 3 pink] Repeat [] around.
R8) [4 pink, 1 white, 11 pink] Repeat [] around.
R9) [4 pink, 1 white, 7 pink, 1 white, 3 pink] Repeat [] around.
R10) [4 pink, 1 white, 6 pink, 3 white, 2 pink] Repeat [] around.
R11) [4 pink, 1 white, 5 pink, 5 white, 1 pink] Repeat [] around.
R12) [4 pink, 1 white, 4 pink, 7 white] Repeat [] around.
R13) [4 pink, 1 white, 7 pink, 1 white, 3 pink] Repeat [] around.
R14) [4 pink, 1 white, 7 pink, 1 white, 3 pink] Repeat [] around.
R15) [1 pink, 7 white, 4 pink, 1 white, 3 pink] Repeat [] around.
R16) [2 pink, 5 white, 5 pink, 1 white, 3 pink] Repeat [] around.
R17) [3 pink, 3 white, 6 pink, 1 white, 3 pink] Repeat [] around.
R18) [4 pink, 1 white, 7 pink, 1 white, 3 pink] Repeat [] around.
R19) [12 pink, 1 white, 3 pink] Repeat [] around.
R20) [4 pink, 1 white, 7 pink, 1 white, 3 pink] Repeat [] around.
R21) [3 pink, 3 white, 6 pink, 1 white, 3 pink] Repeat [] around.
R22) [2 pink, 5 white, 4 pink, 3 white, 2 pink] Repeat [] around.
R23) [1 pink, 7 white, 2 pink, 5 white, 1 pink] Repeat [] around.
R24) [1 pink, 7 white, 2 pink, 2 white, 1 pink, 2 white, 1 pink] Repeat [] around.
R25) [2 pink, 2 white, 1 pink, 2 white, 3 pink, 1 white, 3 pink, 1 white, 1 pink] Repeat [] around.
R26) It is no longer necessary to carry the white. 80 pink.
R27-30) 80 pink.
Finish off, leaving a long tail. Use a large needle to stitch in and out around the last row of sc all the way around, pull up tight. Make a couple of stitches to close up the hole completely, and tie off.

You may have enough remaining white yarn to make a pom pom, or you can use a purchased one, or leave it without.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

- admin

Preparing a Faux Leather Base for a Purse

I have a project in the works that is a crochet purse with a faux leather base.  This is an idea that I have been working on for quite some time.  I have lots of ideas for similar style projects, so I thought I would do a separate post that explains how to prepare the base.

For this project you will need:
Faux leather/vinyl/or other similar material (check in the upholstery section of your fabric store)
Rotary cutter
Straight Edge
Cutting mat
Scissors
Sharpie
Pen
Sewing Machine
Denim weight needle for the sewing machine
Leather rotary punch with a size 3.2 mm tip
Large eye needle

In this example I am preparing a base that will have a finished measurement of 12″ long, 4″ wide, and 2 1/4″ tall. The instructions are based on these measurements. In the future, if the base size changes, I will give you the required measurements but the process of preparing the base will stay the same.

Please note that there is some pretty heavy duty math involved to come up with these measurements. The measurements and amount of holes needs to be exact. I have done all the hard work of figuring that out for you, but if you do not follow the measurements and numbers exactly, your purse project will not work.

Step 1. Cut a rectangle that measures 17 3/4″ x 9 3/4″.

Step 2. On the back side of the rectangle, measure in 2 5/8″ from each edge. With a sharpie, draw lines to mark this measurement. You will see that the lines meet at each corner to create a 2 5/8″ square. On the opposite side from the square, mark a line 1/4″ from the line just made. This is your seam allowance line. There is no need to draw this line all the way across, in fact it will be less confusing if you do not. Your rectangle should now look like the following picture.  (I drew my seam allowance line all the way across on the right side, ignore that.)

Step 3. Now measure in 3/8″ from each edge and mark this line with a pen. There is no need to draw this line all the way through the corner squares. Once you have this line made, with your sharpie, mark dots 1/4″ apart all the way around. I started the first dot about 1/8″ from the seam allowance line. You should have 48 dots on each long side, and 16 dots on each short side. Your rectangle should now look like the following picture.

And here is a close up of how your dots should look.

Step 4. Now, with a sharp pair of scissors, cut out those corner squares. Remember to cut on the outermost line, not the seam allowance line. Your piece should now look like the following picture.

For this project, your long sides should now measure 12 1/2″ and your short sides should measure 4 1/2″.

Step 5. Now it’s time to sew. With right sides together, fold the first corner together and sew on your seam allowance line. Continue sewing all the way through the point that it creates. Look at the following picture to see what I mean.

Follow the sewing instructions for the remaining 3 corners and turn right side out.  You will now have a “box”. This is your base.

Step 6. Now, take your leather rotary punch with the 3.2 mm tip, and punch out each of those dots that you marked. (It is not absolutely necessary to do this with a leather punch, but it will make the project a lot easier. On my prototype purse, I used a large needle without making the holes. It was do-able, but difficult. If you decide to stick with just the needle, skip this step and go to step 7.)

Step 7.  Creating the chain stitch.  This row of stitching will act as your starting chain for the crochet part of your purse. Start with the yarn that you will crochet the first row of your purse with, in this case, the first color is black. Thread a long piece of yarn onto a large needle.  I used around 6 yards total but you can work with shorter pieces and tie a new piece on to continue stitching.  Just make sure that you tie the new piece on the back side of your work.  Bring the needle up through the first hole, make a loop, and put the needle back down through the same hole and up through the next hole, keeping the yarn loop just made under the needle.  See the picture below.  Pull your yarn through but do not pull it too tight.  You will be crocheting using the loop just made and you want to be able to get your crochet hook under the stitch.

The following picture shows what your first finished stitch should look like.

Continue to chain stitch by making your loop, putting the needle back down through the same hole that you just came up through, and bringing the needle up through the next hole and over the loop just made.

Continue stitching all the way around, working one stitch for each hole. When working the last hole, you will bring the needle up through the first hole that you started working in. Put the needle back down through the same hole, but make sure you place the needle on the opposite side of the yarn that is already in the hole. This will keep your last stitch from pulling out. Tie off your yarn in the back. You should now have 128 stitches and your base is complete and ready to start crocheting.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

- admin

Silver Blue Cables Scarf

Well, we are finally having a snow day here in the Valley.  I baked a fresh apple pie to celebrate and so far have only eaten two pieces.  What, it’s fruit, right?

When I saw this yarn at Michael’s, I immediately fell in love with the color and had to have it.  I envisioned something a little chunky, with a bit of a cable, but not too much.  This is what I came up with.

You can choose whether or not you want the fringe.  I decided to add it because this is a chevron type stitch, and I wanted a straight edge on my scarf.  The fringe helps to hide the chevrons and create that straight edge look.


My finished scarf measures 9 1/2″ wide by 75″ long, not including the fringe.

Supplies
(3) skeins of Vanna’s Choice (3.5 oz./170 yd.) in Silver Blue
J/10 6mm hook

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc)
Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc)

Ch 46
R1) Work 2 dc in 5’th ch from hook. Ch 1, skip 2 chains, dc in next ch. [Ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch.] Repeat [] once. Skip next 2 chains, dc in next 2 chains. Skip next 2 chains, dc in next ch. Repeat [] twice. Ch 1, skip 1 ch, 2 dc in next ch. Ch 2, 2 dc in next ch. Repeat [] 3 times. Skip next two chains, dc in next two chains. Skip next 2 chains, dc in next ch. Repeat [] twice. Ch 1, skip 1 ch, work 2 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in last ch. Ch 4, turn.
R2) 2 dc in first ch 1 space. [Ch 1, skip one, dc in next stitch.] Repeat [] twice. Skip next ch and dc, fpdc in next two dc. Skip next dc and ch 1, dc in next dc. Repeat [] twice. Ch 1, skip 1. In ch 2 space work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. Repeat [] 3 times. Skip next ch and dc, fpdc in next two dc. Skip next dc and ch 1, dc in next dc. Repeat [] 2 times. Ch 1, skip 1, in top of turning ch work 2 dc, ch 1, 1 dc. Ch 4, turn.
R3) Repeat row 2, but replace fpdc stitches with bpdc.
Continue working rows 2 and 3 until desired length is reached.
Ch 1, turn so you are working up the long side of the scarf. Sc 2 into each dc/turning ch along length of scarf. Finish off.
On opposite long end, join yarn at one end and work 2 sc into each dc/turning ch, same as first side. Finish off.
Attach fringe to short ends of scarf. I made my fringe 4″ long from longest point. The easiest way to get all the fringe to match is to add longer pieces in the valleys of the row and shorter pieces in the peaks of the row. Then I laid all the fringe flat on a cutting board and used a rotary cutter and ruler to trim everything even.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

- admin

Glam Sweater Purse


A new year, a new purse! Hey, why not, especially if you make it yourself! I don’t think I have ever kept anything that I have crocheted for myself before, but I loved this purse so much that I immediately started using it as soon as I had it finished. I didn’t even wait to take pictures of it first! Which means that you get to peak inside my purse now. Yikes! Oh well.

The pictures didn’t do a very good job of capturing the bits of gold that are in this yarn, but it’s there, and it’s gorgeous.

Supplies
(2) skeins Lion Brand Wool-Ease Quick & Thick in Starlight
N/9 mm hook
Lining fabric
Quilt batting
Heavy fusible interfacing
Handles

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Extened Half Double Crochet (ex-hdc) Yarn over, insert hook in stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through first loop. Yarn over, pull through all the remaining loops

Ch 25
R1) Sc in second ch from hook and next 22 chains. Sc 3 in next ch. Turn and working up the opposite side of the chain, sc in the next 22 chains. Sc 2 in the last ch. Join with sl st to beginning sc, ch 1.
R2) Sc 3 in the first stitch, sc in the next 22 stitches. Sc 3 in each of the next 3 stitches. Sc in next 22 stitches. Sc 3 in each of the last 2 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1.
R3) Sc in first stitch, sc 3 in the next stitch. Sc in the next 24, sc 3 in the next stitch. [Sc in next 2 stitches, sc 3 in the next stitch.] Repeat [] once. Sc in the next 24 stitches, sc 3 in the next stitch. Repeat [] once. Sc in the last stitch, join with sl st to beginning sc. (74 sc)
R4) Ch 3, ex-hdc in each stitch around. (I do not count starting ch as a stitch when working in the round.) Join with sl st to beginning stitch. Ch 1.
R5) From this point on, stitches are worked in the BACK LOOP ONLY. Sl st in each stitch around. Join with sl st to beginning st. Ch 1.
R6) Ch 3, ex-hdc in each stitch around, join with sl st to beginning st. Ch 1.
R7-18) Repeat rounds 5 and 6.
R19-20) Repeat round 5. Finish off. Weave in ends.


At this point, your purse is done as far as crocheting goes. I chose to add a lining to mine, and while I’m not doing a full tutorial on how to do that, I will share a run down of what I did. There are some great tutorials out there on how to line a crochet purse, so if you aren’t familiar with it, a quick google or pinterest search should help you.
For the handles, I found a tote bag at the thrift store with handles that worked for me. If you choose to go that route, don’t overlook an ugly bag. The one I found was pretty ugly. Just look at the condition and style of the handles and go from there.
I bought the fabric that I used to line this purse, but chose to use stuff that I already had in my stash for the inner part of the lining. If you need to purchase all of the materials, there are lots of great options at your local fabric store. You can probably find something that will work even better than what I used.
I made an outer lining and an inside lining. This way, if any of the lining happens to peek through the crochet part, it will still be pretty. So, for my lining, I cut (4) side panels from fabric, (2) bottom pieces from fabric, (2) side panels from quilt batting, (1) bottom piece from quilt batting, and (1) bottom piece from stiff iron on interfacing.
To determine the size of my side panels, I laid my purse flat and measured from the top to the bottom of round 4, from side to side at the bottom of round 4, and side to side at the top. My purse was slightly narrower at the top, so I cut my side panels at a slight angle on each side. Don’t forget to add a seam allowance, I chose to do a 1/2″ seam allowance.
To determine the size of the bottom pieces, I measured the length and width of the base. Round 3 is the last row of the base of the purse. I cut a rectangle to those dimensions, then free handed the rounded part. To get everything as symmetrical as possible, I folded my rectangle in half short ways, then in half long ways, and then cut all four corners at once. I also found that it worked best if the base was cut a bit shorter than actual size, maybe an inch total. Again, don’t forget the seam allowances.
I cut the quilt batting and the interfacing without seam allowances.
I sewed the quilt batting to what would be the outermost layer of lining. On the side panels, I sewed all around the outside edges, then sewed a big x through the center from corner to corner. On the base, I sewed around the edge, then sewed a straight line down the center.
I applied the interfacing to what would be the innermost layer of lining. I sewed a straight line down through the center of this also. The sewn line on the base partly helps with holding everything in place, and partly helps with lining up the side pieces with the base piece.
I sewed my side seams, then sewed my base in, leaving a hole for turning in the innermost layer of lining.
I then sewed my two liners, right sides together, at the top. My handles were a sew-in style, so there were sewn in-between the two layers of lining. Turn everything, sew the turning hole shut. I sewed a short line over the bottom of the handles to help hold them in place.  Hopefully the picture will help explain that.

I sewed a top stitch seam around the top of the liner, then placed it inside my purse and hand stitched it into place.
I have a lot of jewelry odds and ends in my craft stash, so I dug through that until I found the brooch to decorate my purse. I simply pinned it in place.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.